Shkhelda

Report on the first ascent of a Category 3B route on the North face of Pik Kavkaz Centralny (4105 m) in August 2019 by a team from the Technolog Alpine Club.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Tsentralny (4105 m) - the first ascent of the route via the North slope, category 3B, by the team of alpine club "Tekhnolog" on August 2, 2019. Participants: Barabashov A.A. Shabelnikov S.V. St. Petersburg, 2020 I. Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-- | :-- | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Barabashov Anton Alekseevich, Master of Sports |

Report on the first ascent of a category 3A route on the North-Eastern wall of peak Kavkaz West (4037 m) in February 2020.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Zapadny (4037 m) — first passage of the route via the North-Eastern wall, cat. diff. 3A by the team St. Petersburg-2 from February 2 to 3, 2020. I. Ascent Report | № | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-----------------------------------------------------------: | :----------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Nikolayev Yuriy Aleksandrovich — 2nd sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | 1. Bogdanov Kirill Anatolyevich — 1st sports rank2. Eliseev Sergey Gennadyevich — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Erofeev Sergey Andreyevich — Candidate Master of Sports | | 1.4 | Organization | Alpine club "Tekhnolog" (St. Petersburg team) | | | 2. Characteristics of the ascent object | |

Report on the ascent by the SA and Navy team to Peak Shchurovsky via the North-East wall, a 5th category difficulty route, in 1984.

XXXV USSR Championship rock class Report On the ascent of p. Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the north-eastern wall, category 5B route by V. Abalakov of the SA and Navy team Team leader Zhak V.V., team coach Dzhibradev Yu.G. When developing the tactical action plan for the route, the team considered the following factors: the volume of information about the route available to the team before the ascent; the weather conditions in the ascent area; the duration of the approach to the route; the level of preparedness of the team members. To expand knowledge about the route, the team decided to observe it for a day preceding the ascent. On July 21, team members continuously observed the route (see observation and radio communication log). The observation results allowed for some adjustments to the stated tactical plan, according to which the team planned to complete the route in 10-11 hours.

Climbing passport of a winter ascent of 5B category of complexity to Peak Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the North-Eastern wall in the Central Caucasus.

Ascent Passport Class — winter. Central Caucasus. Peak Shchurovsky, 4259 m, via the northeast wall (V. Abalakov's route). Category of difficulty: 5B. Height difference: 800 m, length – 1050 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 220 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 780 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°. Average steepness of the main sections — 75°. Number of pitons driven | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |

Ascent via the north wall of Pik Shchurovskogo, a 5B category route completed by the "Avanard" team in 1962.

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF PIK SHCHUROVSKOGO Central Council of the Sports Society "Avangard" Kiev — 1962 Profile of the lower part of the large rock island. Sections of the wall R7–R10. Photograph taken by V. Bocharov during the ascent of the northeast wall of Pik Shchurovskogo on July 14, 1962. Introduction Pik Shchurovskogo (4259) is located in the Central Caucasus and is situated in the ridge that borders the Shkheldy glacier from the northeast.

Route passport for Peak Shurovskogo via the Western wall through "Surok", category of complexity 5B, height difference 959 m.

PASSPORT Class — technical; Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range; Peak Shurovskogo 4295 m, via the Western wall through "Surok"; Cat. diff. — 5B; Height difference — 959 m. Route length — 1804 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 375 m; Average steepness 64°, steepness of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 72°. Pitons driven | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolts | | :---------: | :----: | :----: |

Report on the winter ascent by a team to Peak Shchurovsky via the West face "Surka" and the edge of the North face bastion, cat. 5.5, in January-February 1983.

Report on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983 Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief:

Report on the ascent of Pik Purovsky via the western wall in 1953 by the CS TSO "Avangard" team, describing a challenging route of category 5B complexity.

Report On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov") Central Council of the DSO "Avangard" Kiev — 1967 Data on team members | № п/п | Surname, name, patronymic | Year of birth | Nationality | Party affiliation | Sports rank | Climbing experience | Primary profession | Place of residence | | :---- | :--------------------------------- | :------------ | :---------- | :-------------------- | :--------------------- | :------------------ | :------------------- | :------------------------------------------------ |

The ascent to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the north wall in 1962, a Category 5B route, with a detailed description of the path and technical characteristics of the sections.

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion) List of participants in the assault group TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall. Height difference of the route: 1060 m Including the most challenging sections: 410 m Steepness of the route: 80–90° Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |

Description of a 5B category route ascent made by a team via the bastion on the northern wall of Shchurovsky Peak in Central Caucasus in 1984.

I. Rock class. Central Caucasus. Peak Shchurovsky via the bastion on the north wall. 5B category of difficulty. Elevation gain 825 m, length 1109 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 626 m. Average steepness — 49°, of the bastion — 66°, including 116 m of 6th category sections. Pitons hammered in: rock — 57, spare — 5; chocks — 48, spare — 1; ice screws — 42, spare — 0.