APPROVED CHAIRMAN OF THE VORONEZH REGIONAL COUNCIL OF DSO "ZENIT" A. PERSHIN "22" November 1972

Report

on the ascent of the Voronezh Regional Council of DSO "Zenit" team to the summit of Mamisong-hokh — 5B cat. dif. (4358 m) The ascent was made in the technical class competition for the primacy of the Central Council of DSO "Zenit".

IV. Route description

July 24. Departed from "Torpedo" tourist center at 5:00. Followed along the Tsey-don River to the Tsey Glacier, then ascended the glacier, passed through the "sheep's foreheads" and Khitsan pass, and reached the snow plateau of the North circus of the Tsey Glacier near the peaks of Mamisong-hokh and Changahi-hokh. Set up a bivouac on the snow plateau in front of the central ridge of the north wall of Mamisong-hokh, from where the route was conveniently observable. Directly in front of us was a snow slope descending from the ridge leading to the eastern summit. The base of the slope was broken by a wide bergschrund with high vertical walls.

Malaya Kaidzhany (3700 m)

via the Eastern ridge, Cat. 1B–2A The summit is situated on the eastern boundary of the Central Caucasus. It is the northernmost summit in the northern spur of Pik Spartaka.

• To the south, Malaya Kaidzhany is connected by a ridge to Severная Kaidzhany (3969).
• To the north, a long ridge descends to Sanibanskii pass (1800 m).
• To the east, the Eastern ridge steeply descends into the Darial gorge. The summit was first ascended by B. Gолубев's team in 1947, traversing the Kaidzhany massif from the north. The Eastern ridge was climbed by V. Kuprin's team in 1971, and has been repeated several times since. Departure from Ordzhonikidze along the Military Georgian Highway to Verkhnii Lars village. 200–300 m before Verkhnii Lars, a trail (abandoned road) branches off to the right into the Belaya Rechka gorge. Be cautious on the trail, as the slopes of the Belaya Rechka gorge are steep. After 2–2.5 hours of walking, the trail joins another one descending from the right slope at a wider part of the gorge, and follows it onto the Eastern ridge of Malaya Kaidzhany. The broad, grassy ridge-koши offers good camping spots. The camping altitude is 2000 m (according to the altimeter). The path continues along the ridge. The ridge:
• is steep and grassy at the beginning of the ascent;

Description

The table "from the north" The route starts on the bridge over the Terek River between the villages of Balta and Chmi, at the mouth of the Vagai-choch (bear) gorge. The bridge is controlled by an MIA (Ministry of Internal Affairs) checkpoint, where there is also a parking area where you can leave your vehicle. Passing through the checkpoint is free, but you need to have your identity documents (passport) with you. From the checkpoint, follow the road east, leaving the "Kavdolomit" quarry to your right, without turning anywhere. Where the road ends, a trail begins, sometimes indistinct, along the bottom of the gorge, passing through the bed of a temporary water flow. The path is obstructed by:

• fallen trees,
• stone blockages,
• bushes. The ravines are quite challenging. Over time, the gorge turns into a narrow canyon with smooth, sheer walls, and further on, the canyon widens again, with the slopes on the northern side becoming gentler. You should follow the trail until you reach a point where a branch trail leads off to the left, up the slope. From the checkpoint, this takes 3–3.5 hours. At this point, there is a fairly steep, grassy slope rising to the ridge, bounded on the east by rocks, along which the ascent to the ridge is made. The ascent from the valley floor to the ridge takes about 1 hour. Follow the ridge east; there is a trail. Over time, the ridge turns to the right, transitioning into a steep, grassy slope with rock outcrops. You should follow the trail, trying to maintain a southerly direction along the gentlest part of the slope. Just below the "table" top, there is a "key" to the route - a rocky belt, which is:

Scheme of the Yerydag mountain node

439

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

1. Technical category.
2. Eastern Caucasus, Dagestan, Chekh-чай gorge.
3. Yery-dag mountain (3925 m) via the Right "cold corner" of the North-West wall.
4. Proposed 6A category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Length of sections: 5 category of complexity — 560 m, 6 category of complexity — 115 m. Average steepness (up to the plateau) — 76 °.
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Logbook

3 years old 44 (Team leader Babitskiy)

1. Category of technical ascents.
2. 2.10 Mountains of Dagestan.
3. Erydag 3925 m, via the left part of the NW wall, "Serp" route.
4. 6A category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 1025 m, wall section height difference – 950 m, route length – 2030 m, wall section length – 1230 m, section lengths: 5 – 635 m, 6 – 45 m, average steepness of the wall section – 70 degrees.

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Eastern Caucasus.
3. Yaridag peak via the left part of the northwest wall through the "mirror", category 5B.
4. Fifth ascent.
5. Height difference - 1180 m.
6. Length - 1205 m. Length of sections R1–R6 category - 994 m. Average slope of the route –78° (2745–3925), including R6 category –80° (3056–3146); 90° (3320–3500).
7. Pitons driven: Rock 82/20, bolted 6/4, placed elements 102/40.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
3. Shalbuzdag Central, 4142 m, via the center of the SW wall, through the cornice, rock route.
4. 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 48
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 280 m, wall — 150 m (from 3860 m to 4010 m), average steepness of the route — 53°, wall — 77°. Route length — 575 m, wall — 180 m. Section lengths: 2 – 100 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 90 m, 5 – 97 m, including 24 m on artificial climbing holds (ITCH), 6 – 38 m (on ITCH); total climbing on ITCH — 62 m, with difficulty: A1 — 8 m, A2 — 36 m, A3 — 18 m.
6. Equipment used on the route:
   • rock pitons 34/18
   • including 7 at belay stations
   • chocks 57/40

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE SAUDARA VALLEY, VANCH RANGE PAMIR
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE 4983 m, eastern wall
4. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY 5B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 1183 m LENGTH OF 5–6 diff. sections 430 m

Ukrainian SSR Climbing Championship 1986 First Ascent Category

REPORT

on the ascent to Peak Shater 5568 m via the right part of the NW wall, 5B category of complexity (first ascent) by the team from Kharkov Regional Sports Committee. Team Leader: Tanets A.A. Team Coach: Artemenko G.P. 310003 Kharkov, Palace of Labor Kharkov Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society 310121 Kharkov 68A, Heroes of Labor St., apt. 34. Tanets A.A.

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation V. Kirpich, 3800 m via the South Face, 5B cat. diff. (Chernoslivin's route) VARIANT 2nd ascent Group members: — Vasiliev B.P. — MS — leader — Shchedrin G.A. — MS — Oshe E.A. — CMS