Shkhelda

121. Volnaya Ispaniya via West Ridge (Category III route) From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) ascend along the Adylsu gorge road. After 300 m, turn right off the road and descend to cross the Adylsu river on a temporary bridge, above the confluence of the stream from the Kashkatau glacier. From the bridge, the trail goes through a flat forest, then steeply ascends and exits onto the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatau glacier. Further ascent along the trail on the moraine ridge leads to platforms at its end. From here, it's possible to ascend 150-200 m up-left to platforms near the "Rusty" cliffs. The initial bivouac is on the platforms. From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp, 3-4 hours.

Ascent Passport:

1. Technical climb category.
2. Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye.
3. Bzhedug, NW wall, direct line.
4. Assumed 5A category, First ascent.
5. Combined route.
6. Height difference: 700 m, route length: 950 m. Length of category complexity sections 5 — 140 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°. Average steepness of the wall — 70°.

V. Blud­ukh, 4270 m, via NW wall, cat. dif. 4A, A. Ro­ma­nov's route, 56 From the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp, follow the right side of the Shkhelda gorge down to the Shkhelda glacier. Immediately after reaching the glacier, cross it in the direction of the stream descending from the Bzhe­dukh glacier, and follow its right side. Then, ascend steep grassy slopes to reach the right-bank moraine (relative to the direction of travel) of the Bzhedukh glacier. From the moraine, approach the rocky ridge in the right part of the Bzhedukh glacier and ascend it in its middle section via wide ledges. Follow the ridge to the right, towards its highest point. Set up a bivouac here. 5–6 hours from the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp.

в. Bakedux, 4270 m по В кф. сл. гре­бня, к 4Ак (сл. маршрут D. Ду­равско­го), 55

в. Бжедух, 4270 m, via North ridge, lс, 3Б cat. sl., L. Distel's route, R0. From Джантуган ASB we ascend to overnight stays below the "Red rocks". From the overnight stays we exit via the Кашка — Таш glacier in the direction of the big couloir of the north ridge of в. Бжедух. We ascend via snow in the couloir to the upper part of the rocky island. Traversing the destroyed rocks upwards to the right, we exit to the boundary of rocks and snow. In the upper part of the ridge we circumvent small rocky walls with a traverse to the left — upwards to the ridge (from overnight stays 90–120 min). On the ridge we move along the scree towards в. Бжедух. Having passed the wide part of the ridge along the screes to the rocky section rising towards the summit, we traverse 100–120 m. The descent from the ridge down to the Бжедух glacier is not difficult (from the start of the ridge to the descent to the glacier — 60–75 min). About an hour is needed to walk along the glacier to the snowy ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the right. Further, the path goes along a snowy-icy ascent:

• At the end — an icy ascent.
• Move on front points with insurance via ice screws.
• In the upper part, icy overhangs loom.
• Pass the entire snowy ridge to the left of these overhangs (4–5 hours).

117. Bzhedukh via the left ice slope of the Northwest Wall (Yu. Naumov's route, category 3B). The path from the Shhelda alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh Peak with a bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Bzhedukh Glacier or a rocky outcrop under the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh is described in route 116. From the bivouac site, bypass the rocky drop of the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh Peak on the left along the glacier and exit onto a steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the massif to the Bzhedukh Glacier. Ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, overcoming a bergschrund in the lower part, a 600-800-meter ascent (avalanches, piton protection!) along the left side of the Northwest Wall to a snowy rocky ridge located above the rocky drop of the Northwest Wall of the peak. From here, ascend traversing upwards - to the right (avalanches!), crossing numerous couloirs and ridges, to rocky outcrops of a relatively large, clearly pronounced ridge. Then, along a steep snowy ridge - slope, ascend to the North Ridge of Bzhedukh Peak. Here, turn right and ascend along a snowy slope and simple rocks to the summit of Bzhedukh. From the initial bivouac, 9-11 hours. Descent from the summit along the southeast ridge with a bivouac on the col (see route 120). The duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people:

• main rope — 2 × 40 m
• accessory cord — 2 m
• rock pitons — 4–5
• ice screws — 6–8

120. Bzhedug via the Southeast Ridge (Category II route) The path from the Djantugan alp camp to the "Ryzhie" ("Red") Rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier is described in Route 118. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks (without backpacks), descend to the right onto the Kashkatash Glacier and ascend on its left side (beware of crevasses!). The icefall is bypassed on the left under the slopes of Ullukara Peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). After the icefall, move to the right onto the upper snow plateau of the Kashkatash Glacier. Move up the plateau - to the right under the col of the ridge between Bzhedug Peak on the right and Volnaya Ispaniya (Free Spain) Peak on the left. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 1.5-2 hours. From the upper plateau of the glacier, ascend the steep, partially rugged snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya Peak (avalanches and icefall are possible from Bzhedug!). It is better to bypass the crevasses on the slope on the left. A large crevasse crossing almost the entire slope not far from the col should be overcome via a snow bridge or bypassed on the right. After the crevasse - up the steep snow slope and a small ice-snow ascent to the narrow snow ridge of the col (beware of cornices!). From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 4-5 hours. At the col, turn to the right and ascend the snowy Southeast Ridge of Bzhedug Peak, which gradually turns into a snow slope. Further:

• along the scree ridge - slope,
• along the gently sloping snow ridge - ascent to the summit of Bzhedug. From the col - 1-2 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. To the Djantugan alp camp - 4-5 hours. Duration of the route - 2 days. Special equipment for 4 people:
• main rope - 2 × 30 m,

From the Shkhelda a/b, up the right slope of the Shkhelda valley trapezoid, first through the forest, then through the grassy slopes to the Shkhelda glacier. 300 m above the glacier tongue, exit to its surface moraine. Along the moraine, sticking to the right bank of the glacier, go about 500 m upstream along the gorge, then exit to the right onto the trail. Along the trail on the grassy slope, the ascent along the glacier to the clearing at the rocks with black stripes — Aristov bivouac. On the clearing there is a bivouac. From the Shkhelda alp camp — 3.5–4 hours. From Aristov bivouac, go to the Aksu glacier — the right tributary of Shkhelda — and up it. Having passed the right branch of the Aksu glacier falling into it with an icefall, exit after the turn to the icefall of the main (left) branch of the Aksu glacier, lying in a narrow rocky gorge. Pass the icefall in the center or bypass it to the right along the moraine (a longer and more dangerous path due to falling stones!). Beyond the icefall:

• ascent along the center of the glacier,
• ascent along the ice-snow ascent (crevasses!) to the snow plateau of the upper circus of the left branch of the Aksu glacier. Move up the plateau — to the right to the snowy slope rising to the North-Eastern ridge of the Aksu peak. Along the slope — ascent to the ridge (bivouac site). From the sites on the ridge — exit to the upper circus of the right branch of the Aksu glacier. Along the snow plateau of the upper circus of the right branch, go to the left and, without losing height, shift to the Aksu pass. From Aristov bivouac — 7–8 hours. On the pass, turn left to the Western ridge of the Aksu peak. Along simple, heavily destroyed rocks of the Western ridge with small scree and rocky ascents of gendarmes, passable head-on, ascent to the Aksu peak. From the Aksu pass — 2.5–3 hours.

А­Х­SУ via Western ridge, cat. 2А From the CSP:

• go up along the trail on the slope of the «Shkhelda gorge» — first through the forest, then along the grassy slopes — to the Shkhelda glacier;
• 300 m above the glacier's tongue, exit onto its lateral moraine;
• follow the moraine, keeping to the right bank of the glacier, and move about 500 m up the gorge;
• then exit to the right onto the trail;
• ascend along the trail on the grassy slope along the glacier to the clearing near the rocks with black stripes — Aristov's bivouac.