Protocol

of the ascent to v. Shkhelda Central via the North wall (Subortovich route, qualifying), made on June 22, 1980 under the guidance of Radoshkevich E.A.

Attendees:

• Head of the training department a/l "Elbrus" — MS Shaposhnikov B.M.
• Head of the rescue camp — Ostrovsky V.M.
• Commander of the 1st detachment of athletes — MS SIVTSOV V.G.
• Radoshkevich E.A. — leader
• Turkevich M.M. — participant
• Feldman G.L. — participant
• Ivenkov A.D. — participant

Speakers: Radoshkevich E.A. On June 18, we went on approach, approached overnight stays under the route, from which we spent the rest of the day observing the state of the route. On June 19, at 3:30, we started on the route. Along the steep snow-ice slope of the hanging glacier, with alternate insurance, overcoming 3-4-meter dumps, by 9:00 we approached the bergschrund at the beginning of the "ram foreheads". Then along the steep snow-ice couloir and snow-covered "ram foreheads" we reached the right side of a small counterfors of the North wall. Then we moved along the sheer rock walls. At 14:00 the weather worsened, heavy snow began to fall. From 15:00 we were engaged in equipping a site for a tent. On June 20, in poor weather conditions, from the bivouac, we processed 2 ropes of the route. On June 21, we started moving at 6:00. We passed complex, sheer, in places with overhanging rock sections and along the snow-ice belt by 16:00 we reached the pre-summit wall of Central Shkhelda. Here is an overnight stay on a snow-ice shelf. On June 22, we started moving at 5:00. Along the wall 6.5 ropes we came to the top at 12:00. Descent from the top to the Aristov saddle and further along snow-ice couloir to the South Shkheldinsky glacier. Further ascent to the pass Middle, here overnight stay. On June 23, through the pass Akhsu we descended into a/l "Elbrus". All complex rock sections of the wall were very reliably passed by Turkevich. I passed the ice part of the route on crampons, using ice screws and ice axes. The route is complicated, and in poor weather conditions it is complicated by rime ice. The group is satisfied.

Turkevich M.M. "The route at this time of year is not stone-dangerous, although sometimes ice and snow come down the wall. The wall of the upper part is covered with rime ice. It presents a certain difficulty snow-ice belt of the wall — fresh snow covers hard rime ice. In the group, it was not always possible to hear the partner in the rope, so it is not clear what he is doing at the moment. In general, I am satisfied with the ascent, although it is possible to pass faster".

Ivenkov A.D. "The ascent was liked, all the guys worked with full dedication. All overnight stays are lying down, although on the wall they are not entirely safe. Hearing the commands of the first is always difficult, since he is often behind a bend, with strong wind".

Feldman G.L. "To the above, it can be added that the group showed:

• good preparation,
• coordinated work,
• psychological compatibility and, in principle, is ready for ascents on more complex routes. I propose to credit the ascent to all participants and the leadership to the leader".

Ostrovsky V.M. "The group passed a complex route in bad weather conditions, reliably, tactically competently, without accidents. I support Feldman G.L.'s proposal".

Shaposhnikov B.M. "I consider it necessary to credit the participation to the participants and the leadership to the leader".

The analysis was conducted by: B.M.B.

Secretary:

Brief explanation to the table

R0–R1 from overnight stay on the moraine under the route to the right up along the hanging glacier in places dumps of 3–4 m, to the bergschrund (440 m, 60°). R1–R2 from the bergschrund to the left, then up along the snow-ice couloir (80 m, 60°). R2–R3 to the left along the snow-covered "ram foreheads" of the rock couloir — exit to a small counterfors (40 m, 70°). R3–R4 along the snowy ridge up under the beginning of the rock wall (60 m, 60°). R4–R5 along the snow-covered wall up onto a shelf (80 m, 85°). R5–R6 from the shelf to the left through the rock couloir onto an oblique shelf with rime ice, along the shelf to the left under the sheer ascent of the wall (80 m, 60°). R6–R7 from the shelf up along the sheer with overhanging crack, exit to a ledge, in the crack — rime ice (20 m, 92°). R7–R8 from the ledge to the left-up, then to the right-up along the destroyed rocks of the wall — exit to a shelf, rocks are snow-covered (40 m, 90°). After preparation, the shelf is suitable for overnight stay under a tent, but in bad weather, the shelf will be covered with snow from the upper couloir. To the left of the shelf — a control cairn. R8–R9 from overnight stay up along the wall, in places with rime ice, onto a separated slab (40 m, 90°). R9–R10 from the slab to the left 8 m, then up along the overhanging crack with rime ice through a protruding forehead, into a sheer chimney. Along the chimney up through a cornice, onto a shelf, then along the sheer crack with rime ice — onto a shelf under a protruding rock (80 m, 92°). R10–R11 from the shelf, bypassing to the left along the sheer destroyed wall of the protruding rock, exit to an internal corner and along it up — exit to the snow-ice belt of the North wall (40 m, 90°). R11–R12 along the snowy slope to the left-up, freshly fallen snow holds steps poorly (60 m, 60°). R12–R13 further along the ice slope, covered with a thin layer of snow, up to the base of the wall of the pre-summit tower, ice is very hard, crampons hold poorly (60 m, 60°). Here is an overnight stay on an ice shelf. R13–R14 from overnight stay along the sheer rocks of the left side of the couloir up onto a shelf (120 m, 85°). R14–R15 to the right, crossing the couloir, exit to the right side of the couloir and further up onto a ledge (120 m, 85°). R15–R16 from the ledge up along difficult rocks — exit to the top of Shkhelda Center. (40 m, 90°).

From the top, descent 7 ropes to the Aristov saddle and further along the snow-ice couloir (route 40 cat. sl.) to the South Shkheldinsky glacier. Further ascent to the pass Middle. Overnight stay on the pass. The next day:

• ascent along the watershed ridge
• traverse to the left to the pass Akhsu
• from the pass descent along the glacier into a/l "Elbrus"