Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus
3. Peak Chatyn Main — 4368 m, "по ромбу" North wall (route by L. Myshlyaev)
4. 6B category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 770 m, length — 880 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 83° (3600–4040 m), including 6B cat. diff. — 95° (3825–3860 m; 3935–4030 m)

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the North-West ridge, category 5B, undertaken by the team of alpinist camp "Varzob" UA VS DSO trade unions from July 30 to July 31, 1984 Team captain — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov, Team coach — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov. Addresses:

• alpinist camp "Varzob" — 734003, Dushanbe, post office box 362
• Team captain — 734061, Dushanbe, ul. 50 let Tadzhikistana, d. II, kv. 4, Kapitanov Oleg Viktorovich Altitude measurement was done using altimeter AV No. 714568. Steepness was determined visually and with the help of a protractor. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the left) PHOTO-2 Date taken — July 31, 1984. Distance — 1.5 km. Time taken — 12:00. Shooting point — 2. Lens — Industar 52/2. Shooting height — 4100 m. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the right)

Passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Central Caucasus. 2.4
3. Chatyn Glavny (4368 m), via the diamond-shaped section of the North Face.
4. Difficulty category: 6A.
5. Height difference of the wall section of the route — 770 m. Length — 1200 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 80°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 580 m.
6. Pitons left on the route:

I. Rock class. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Peak Shchurovsky via the bastion on the north wall. 4. 5B category of difficulty. 5. Elevation gain 825 m, length 1109 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 626 m. Average steepness — 49°, of the bastion — 66°, including 116 m of 6th category sections. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 57, spare — 5; chocks — 48, spare — 1; ice screws — 42, spare — 0.

Report

of the Tashgorsportkomitet team on the ascent of Mt. Chatyn (main) 4368 m via the "diamond" of the northern wall (variant along the edge) UzSSR, Tashkent 1981

Profile of the wall section of the route

Orography and brief history of exploration

Mt. Chatyn is located in a spur of the Main Caucasus Range, branching off between the peaks of Malaya Ushba and Shchurovsky. The spur is a sharp rocky-ice (snow) ridge, with three distinct peaks: Western, Main, and Eastern Chatyn. The Western peak was first conquered in 1912 by Golubev via a relatively easy route from the Ushba plateau. The exploration of Chatyn's wall began only in 1952. B.A. Garf's group passed a route through the Northern wall. In 1954, I.P. Leonov's group traversed the peaks Chatyn-Ushba-Mazeri, ascending via a steep counterfort of the Northern wall. In 1957, I.V. Solodueva's group traversed the eastern edge of the massif. It wasn't until 1959 that the "diamond" of the Northern wall was conquered - a huge black rocky overhang beneath the Main peak. Two teams - A. Snesarev's and L. Myshlyaev's - after a multi-day assault, established two routes of the highest category on Chatyn. To date, five routes have been passed through the "diamond" of the Northern wall (I. Chernoslivin, 1965, I. Bolizhevsky, 1969, V. Krakovich, 1972, in addition to the two mentioned above), the technical difficulty of which is undeniable, as proven by time.

Conditions of the ascent to Mt. Chatyn via the "diamond" of the Northern wall (variant along the edge)

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents
2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range
3. Shkhelda Central via the center of the left rock bastion on the northern wall, first ascent
4. Difficulty category – proposed 6A
5. Height difference – 1295 m, route length – 1727 m
6. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 872 m. Length of sections with 6 difficulty category – 347 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route – 65°
7. Pitons hammered: rock – 118, ice – 88, protection gear – 93, bolted – 11
8. Team's working hours – 60, days – 6
9. Overnights:

113. Peak Caucasus via the Southwest Ridge (Route 2A cat. difficulty). The path from the Shhelda alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the Double Glacier is described in route 111. Across the Double Glacier straight up to its bifurcation. Then ascent (with crampons!) up the steep icefall of the right glacier branch. At the end of the ascent, exit left onto the easy rocks of the ridge dividing the glacier into two parts, and ascend to the sites (there is water). From the sites (without backpacks):

• Exit to the upper ice-snow plateau
• Movement across the plateau and a small snowy slope
• Ascent to the Shheldinsky Pass (0.5 hours from the sites; 8-10 hours from the Shhelda alpine camp). From the pass:
• Left and up a snowy couloir to ascend to the Southwest Ridge of Peak Caucasus East.
• Movement along the easy, in places moderately difficult, broken and snow-covered rocks of the ridge - to a site below the pre-summit wall.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — winter.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Shchurovsky, 4259 m, via the northeast wall (V. Abalakov's route).
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: 800 m, length – 1050 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 220 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 780 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°. Average steepness of the main sections — 75°.
6. Number of pitons driven | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |

Peak Profsoyuzov!

PRK Profsoyuzov.

Cat. diff. 2B.

Summit elevation 2050 m.

The summit is located in the Main Caucasian Range, on the same ridge as the peaks Pkhola-Tau. Near the peak Profsoyuzov are located the following peaks:

• to the southeast — Pkhola-Tau
• to the northwest — Psentiba-shi
• a nameless peak above the Akh-Tsu pass

Ascent to Peak Chatyn (Main) via the "diamond" on the wall (Grakovich) 6B category of complexity by the AUSB "Shkhelda" team led by M.E. Danilchik as part of the AUSB Championship and KSP of the All-Union Council of the VDFSO trade unions in 1989.

1. Class: technical.
2. Region: Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye.
3. Object: Peak Chatyn Main via the "diamond" on the wall (Grakovich) 6B category of complexity (4368 m)
4. Route characteristics: | Route elevation gain | 795 m. | | :--------------------------------------: | :----: | | Route length | 950 m. | | Length of the "diamond" wall | 435 m. |