7. Medvezhiy Zamok from Zamok Pass, category 3A route, fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend northwards via scree and grassy slopes to Zamok Pass. From the pass, move left towards the south-eastern ridge of the summit. The ascent begins along this ridge on moderately difficult rocks. Protection is alternating. Overcome two short rock walls. Bypass the gendarme on the right via slabs. The subsequent internal corner, with a steepness of up to 60° and 15 m long, is climbed left of the ridge, then along the ridge. Bypass the second gendarme on the left via ledges. Protection is via pitons. The bypass is 20–25 m long. Then ascend a 4-meter rock wall to reach a broad ridge platform. Traverse subsequent grey slabs on the right via a crack between them. Further, ascend via scree and easy rocks to the Southern summit. The descent from the summit to the north is via the Northern summit — category 2A (route 6). The ascent takes 9 h.

Ledges with large rocks Gateway Ledge (60°) Black veins: 3rd 2nd 1st B. Siamy Glacier Helmet Medvezhiy Zamok Northern Southern