Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class - Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region - Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Osman-Tala mountains 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route - SIYEKH (BLACK), 4100 m, via the northwest buttress of the north wall 4. Proposed difficulty category - 4B 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1300 m, average steepness 65° Length of sections - R1 - 380 m, R2 - 710 m, R3 - 530 m, R4 - 500 m, R5 - 60 m, R6 - 0 m 6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating A.T.O. rock 7. Number of climbing hours - 18.5 hours

Ascent to the summit Studencheskaya

from N.-E. with cat. difficulty From the overnight stays under the Studencheskaya peak, cross to the right bank of the Siama River and ascend to the moraine located to the N.-E. of the Studencheskaya peak. Then, via a couloir and easy rocks, ascend to the snowy plateau located in the N.-N.-E. part of the Studencheskaya peak massif. Traverse the plateau to the left, approach the "window" in the northern ridge of the peak, and through it, exit under the N.-E. rocky slopes of the peak. The following options are possible:

• Ascend via the N.-E. scree slopes of the peak from the Siama River.
• Traverse the scree slopes of the eastern cirque via the scree near the rocks, pass through two couloirs, and approach the fourth one. The landmark is that the peak is visible from it. Ascend via the snow, and then via the rocks. In the upper part of the couloir, there is steep snow; ascend with protection up to the wall at the end of the couloir. The wall above the couloir has a pronounced crevice with chimneys, which is used for further ascent. The first rocky outcrop of the wall, resembling "ram's foreheads," is passed with piton protection (30 m), then:
• leftwards, bypassing the rocky ridge on the left

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category

• technical

2. Ascent area

• Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route

• p. Studencheskaya 3792 m, via W wall.

4. Estimated category of difficulty

• 5A

5. Route characteristics

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — Winter ascents.
2. Ascent region — Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuz spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Surkh-Nu (2980 m) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 1B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1380 m, average slope 30°–35°, length of sections: R1 — ... m, R2 — 2500 m, R3 — ... m, R4 — ... m, R5 — ... m, R6 — ... m.
6. Pitons hammered in:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — winter ascents
2. Ascent area: Gissarsky ridge, Surkh-Kukh spur
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. Surkh-Nu (2980) via South-West ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 1B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1380 m, average slope 30–35°
6. Length of sections: I — 960 m, II — 80 m, III — m, IV — m, V — m, VI — m.
7. Pitons driven: rock — 0

103

I. Climbing category - winter ascent 2. Climbing area - Issarsky Ridge Orog. Surkh-Nukh 3. Peak, its height and ascent route - Surkh-Nu, 2980 m, via the Southwest ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1380 m, average slope 40°–50°, length of sections R1–20 m, R2–70 m, R3–60 m, R4–…–m, R5–…–m, R6–…–m. 6. Number of pitons driven: For belaying: rock 10, ice, drilled. For creating ITO: 7. Number of travel hours - 9–10 h

1. Climbing category — winter ascents.
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range, Surkh-Kuh spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Surkh-Nu peak (2980 m) via the left counterfort, left part of the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 880 m, average steepness of the wall section — 56°, ridge — 30–35°; section lengths: R1 — 500 m, R2 — 240 m, R3 — 260 m, R4 — 85 m, R5 — 15 m, R6 — .
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying for creating anchor points rock 18 pcs. ice —

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — winter ascents.
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuh spur.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — p. Surkh-Nu (2980) via the central counterfort of the left part of the SE wall.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference –880 m average steepness: wall section –50° ridge –20° section lengths:

1. Climbing category — winter ascent
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range, Sur-Kuh spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Surkh-Nu peak (2980 m) via the right counterfort, left part of the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 880 m, average steepness: wall section — 56°, ridge — 30°–35°, section lengths: 1st difficulty category — 500 m, 2nd difficulty category — 330 m, 3rd difficulty category — 180 m, 4th difficulty category — 70 m, 5th difficulty category — 0 m, 6th difficulty category — 0 m.
6. Pitons used: rock 10 (0), ice 0 (0), bolted 0 (0), chocks 6 (0).
7. Number of climbing hours — 6 (not including approach to the wall 4 hours and descent from the summit 2 hours).
8. Number of nights, their characteristics — one in the base camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
   1. Kashina Olga Gennadievna CMS

up 536 21.0289 Part 1 1036 1046 Ascent Report Climb Category: Combined Ascent Area: Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuh spur. Peak, its height, and ascent route:

• Peak Surkh-Nu via the central counterfort of the southeastern wall
• Height: 2980 m Estimated Difficulty Category: 3A Route Characteristics: 680 m elevation gain, average slope 45° Section Lengths:
• 1: 800 m