Climbing Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Gissarsky Range
3. Western summit of Zamin Karor, height — 4303 m (first ascent)
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1303 m length of sections: 1030 m average steepness — 85°
6. Number of pitons used:

II. Climbing Passport.

I. Climb category — TECHNICAL. 2. Northern spur of the Gissar ridge. 3. Summit — ZAMIN KAROR I West, height 4303 m, via the right part of the NW wall. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m. length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 460 m. length of sections with 6th difficulty category — 690 m. average steepness — 80° 6. Pitons hammered:

USSR Climbing Championship 1988. Rock class.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Zamin Karor (Western shoulder 4070) via the right part of the NW wall (variant) by the team of the State Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR. Team leader: Yevgeny V. Prilepa. Team coach: Vyacheslav I. Lavrukhin. State Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR Dushanbe, tel. 22-32-27 Chief coach Almin R.

Introduction

Yaghnob, which translates to "ice-cold water" in Tajik, is a relatively unexplored and unclimbed mountain region in Tajikistan. It is situated between the Zeravshan and Gissar ridges, bordering the Fann Mountains to the east. The Yaghnob mountain massifs have elevations close to 5000 m, with their northern slopes dropping off in kilometer-high rock faces. The Yaghnob region is undoubtedly of great interest to climbers with good rock climbing skills, as there are many opportunities for technically challenging ascents. Located approximately 80 km from Dushanbe and within 10-15 km of a motorable road, the Yaghnob region is easily accessible to athletes. The first sporting ascent in this region was made by a group of Dushanbe climbers in 1969. They climbed routes of 5B category difficulty on Peak Yaghnob (4100 m) via the northwestern wall's bastions, ledges, and couloirs, commonly referred to as the Yaghnob Wall. The routes taken were on the most dissected and gentle parts of this wall, specifically along the eastern and western edges. The unclimbed central part of the Yaghnob Wall is a sheer monolith with extensive overhanging sections. The height difference of the vertical part of the wall is 1200 m (base at 2850 m, crest at 4150 m). The central part of the Yaghnob Wall is extremely interesting from a sporting perspective and is completely safe from snow and ice avalanches due to the minimal snow on the wall and its crest. Black water streaks appear on the walls under the snowfields during the day but dry up by evening. The sun illuminates the central part of the wall only towards the end of the day.

Ascent Report from the Hissar Ridge spurs

to the summit of Zamin Karor I Western 4303 m via the central part of the North-West wall, 6B (Shramko G. route), by the Kiev regional council team of the “Burevestnik” sports society:

PASSPORT

of the ascent made in a/l "Varzob" 1976

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Hissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route 1-3. Zamin-Karor peak (4303 m) via the Central part of the N-3 wall (repeated route)
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B cat. dif.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1303 m, average steepness — 83°, length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 920 m.
6. Number of pitons driven for belaying and creating ITO: rock pitons — 215 pcs and 34 pcs, ice pitons — none, bolt pitons — 7 pcs.

ASCENT RECORD. 435 by Shramko.

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent region — Gissar Ridge.
3. Pik Zamin-Karor, 1st West, via the central part of the NW wall, 4303 m.
4. Category 6B.
5. Height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 500 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons driven: — for belay: rock — 16 pcs., ice — 5 pcs.

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Gissar Ridge
3. Climbing route with summit height: Zamin Karor 1st West via NW ridge, Shramko - 4303 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 6B
5. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1100 m, average steepness 73°, length of sections IV–VI cat. diff. 850 m
6. Pitons driven: rock 57, ice 0, bolt 0
7. Number of travel hours: 29

The ascent category is technically complex. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge. The summit is Zamin Karor I West along the center of the NW wall. The difficulty category is 6B. Height difference — 1200 m. The length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1175 m. Average steepness — 87.5°. Pitons used: for belay: rock 180, ice —, bolted 17; for creating belay stations: rock 15. Total climbing hours — 56 hours. Number of bivouacs on the route — 4:

• sitting — 2;
• lying — 2. Team members:
• Baychenko Yuri Petrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, team leader;
• Lapshin Leonid Petrovich — Master of Sports;

44

Climbing Report of the Ukrainian Sports Committee Team at the 4th USSR Alpine Climbing Championship (Technical Class) 1979

Climbing Details

1. Climbing Class: Technical
2. Climbing Area: Yaghnob Wall
3. Peak, its Height, and Climbing Route: 1st West Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the wall.
4. Proposed Complexity Category: 6B.
5. Route Characteristics: height difference – 1353 m; route length – 1670 m; average steepness – 87°; section lengths: 3 – 200 m, 2 – 10 m, 4 – 250 m, 5 – 640 m, 6 – 570 m.
6. Number of Pitons: for belaying: