Ascent Record

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Gissarsky Ridge
3. Ascent route with peak height: Zamin Karor 2nd via NW ridge (Lapshin), 4525 m
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1150 m, average steepness 67°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 800 m
6. Pitons driven: rock — 120, ice — 0, bolt — 0
7. Number of climbing hours: 32 hours
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: 2 nights on ledges

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical class.
2. Yaghnob. Hissar Range.
3. Summit Zamin-Karor 2nd West via N-3 slope, 4525 m.
4. Category 5B (rated).
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m; length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty — 460 m; average steepness — 70–75°.
6. Pitons hammered for belay:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Gissar Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: P-ya Zapadnaya peak Zamin-Karor 4525, Lapshin route
4. Difficulty category: 5B – rated
5. Route characteristics: via the northwest wall
   • Height difference: 1500 m
   • Average steepness: 65–70°
   • Length of sections: R1 – 215 m; R2 – 160 m; R3 – 250 m; R4 – 300 m; R5 – 520 m; R6 – 65 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge, Yaghnob.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Second Western p. Zamin-Karor, 4525 m, via the Northwest wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1400 m, average steepness 63°, length of sections: 5th cat. diff. — 520 m, 6th cat. diff. — 50 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock for belay 96, for creating belay stations 2; bolt pitons —, ice —.
7. Number of climbing hours — 20.5 h.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 1 overnight stay, lying down.

Passport

1. Class of ascent - technical
2. Area of ascent - Pissarsky Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - West Peak ZAMIN-KAROR (4303 m) via NW wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty - 5B category of complexity
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference - 1370 m, average steepness - 57°, length of sections with 5-6 category - 560 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying and creating belay stations. | rock | - 182 pcs. | | :---------- | :--------- |

Ascents

The class of ascent is technical. The area of ascent is the Gissar Ridge. The ascent route is the 2nd Western peak of Zamin Karor via the NW wall (4525 m). The difficulty category is 5B, rated. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 1370 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 710 m, average steepness — 70°. 40 rock protection hooks were hammered in, and 28 for technical equipment. The number of movement hours is 28. Number of overnight stays — 1, good. Team members: Galitsyn Yury Nikolayevich, CMS; Prisyazhnoy Vladimir Pavlovich, CMS. Team coach — Sogrin S.N., MS. The ascent was made on September 1-2, 1977. www.alpfederation.ru

Ascent to the 2nd Western peak of Zamin Karor

(Yaghnob wall) via NW wall – 5B category difficulty. From the base camp, ascend along the talus slope under the NW wall of the 2nd Western peak. Under the wall, there is a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 45°. From the snow, transition to moderately difficult rocks, along which ascend 60 m (65°) to the beginning of a ledge going along the wall from right to left upwards. Along the ledge, left for about 200 m. The ledge is up to 10 m wide, with sections of ice and snow. At the end of the ledge, there are platforms from which ascend upwards along the rugged wall (75°) for 100-120 m to the 2nd ledge.

Yaghnob Wall

to the Western summit

Description of the ascent via the northern wall with an exit to the "Western II" summit

Dushanbe, 1970 www.alpfederation.ru

Passport

of the ascent made in the 1973 USSR Alpine Championship.

1. Ascent category: Technically challenging
2. Ascent area: Gissar Ridge
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: First Western Peak of Zamin-Karor (4303 m) via the Northwest wall.
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1303 m average steepness 85° 30′ length of complex section 905 m
5. Pitons driven:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technically challenging.
2. The area of the climb — Gissar Range, Yaghnob.
3. The summit, its height, and the climbing route — First Western summit of Zamin-Karor, 4303 m, via the left edge of the North-West wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1300 m, average slope 81°, length of sections:
   • Category 5 difficulty — 540 m
   • Category 6 difficulty — 550 m
6. Number of pitons used:
   • Rock pitons: for protection — 206, for creating artificial holds (IТО) — 42.