- Climbing category: technical
- Climbing area: Gissar Ridge
- Climbing route with summit height: Zamin Karor 1st West via NW ridge, Shramko - 4303 m.
- Proposed difficulty category - 6B
- Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1100 m, average steepness 73°, length of sections IV–VI cat. diff. 850 m
- Pitons driven: rock 57, ice 0, bolt 0
- Number of travel hours: 29
- Number of nights and their characteristics: 2 nights on narrow ledges, semi-reclined
- Surname, name, and patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
- POPOV VALERIY NIKOLAEVICH CMS
- KORENEVA IRINA EFIMOVNA MS
- BELOUSOV VIKTOR MIKHAILOVICH CMS
- LARIN VIKTOR IVANOVICH CMS
- MIKHAILOV ANDREY ANDREEVICH CMS Team coach: KORENEVA IRINA EFIMOVNA
- Date of departure and return:
from August 5, 1977 to August 7, 1977
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route
| Date | Desig. | Average steepness | Length | Terrain characteristics | Section characteristics, cat. diff., condition | Weather conditions | Departure time | Rock pitons driven | Ice pitons driven | Bolt pitons driven | Overnight conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R1 | 60 | 100 | smooth rocks | 3, fragile | clear | 7:00–21:00 | 4 | ||||
| R2 | 85 | 60 | smooth rocks | 6, monolithic | 6 | ||||||
| R3 | 00 | 15 | slab | 6, monolithic | 4 | ||||||
| R4 | 67 | 60 | rugged wall | 6, fragile | 10 | ||||||
| R5 | 100 | 60 | internal corner | 6, monolithic | 10 | ||||||
| R6 | 70 | 50 | external corner from crack | 6, monolithic | 4 | ||||||
| R7 | 75 | 40 | smooth wall | 6, monolithic | 8 | ||||||
| R8 | 80 | 40 | wall with ledge | 5, fragile | 6 | ||||||
| R9 | 65 | 30 | slab | 6, monolithic | 3 | ||||||
| R10 | 70 | 80 | rugged rocks | 4, fragile | 7 | ||||||
| R11 | 80 | 40 | corner, chimney | 6, monolithic | clear | 9:00–21:00 | 4 | Lying on a platform | |||
| R12 | 65 | 110 | ledges, walls | 4, fragile | 12 | ||||||
 | |||||||||||
| R13 | 65 | 40 | worn rocks | 4, fragile | 5 | ||||||
| R14 | 40 | 100 | scree, rocks | 3 | 2 | ||||||
| R15 | 70 | 60 | worn rocks | 5, fragile | 7 | ||||||
| R16 | 85 | 80 | rugged rocks | 6, fragile | 11 | ||||||
| R17 | 65 | 100 | smooth rocks | 6, monolithic | 10 | ||||||
| R18 | 100 | 12 | ledge with crack | 6, monolithic | 15:40 | 4 | |||||
| R19 | 75 | 50 | slab | 6, monolithic | 6 | ||||||
| R20 | 65 | 40 | ledge | 4, fragile | clear | 10:00–15:00 | 4 | Lying on ledges 2–3 | |||
| R21 | 95 | 35 | ledge with crack | 6, monolithic | 8 | ||||||
| R22 | 80 | 40 | wall of brittle rocks | 6, fragile | 4 | ||||||
| R23 | 90 | 70 | under ledge | 6, fragile | 12 |
Brief explanation of the table
The wall begins immediately after section R0–R1. The rocks are monolithic, местами smoothed and steep. On section R3–R4 - a series of ledges (corners with negative steepness). Section R4–R5 begins with a crack in the internal corner with negative steepness, then turns into a chimney, the outer part of which overhangs to the left. Here is a cairn in the so-called "room". Section R6–R7. The smooth wall begins with a ledge with a hairline crack. Here is a 5 m runner. Further climbing is relatively easy until a large snow-covered ledge. On the ledge is a cairn. Approaching the ledge and exiting it involves rocks clogged with stones. Sections R12–R13 are objectively dangerous during thawing of precipitation on the wall. Section R15–R16. The internal corner is almost sheer. Further, after relatively easy climbing, there is a ledge, section R17–R18, and a slab. Section R18–R19. On the ledge, the crack disappears and the exit is by climbing onto the slab with a limited number of holds and no cracks. The slab is climbed with flake holds. Mostly free climbing.
The overnight stay is almost comfortable for four people. Section R20–R21. Ledge with a wide crack. The ledge is long. We passed using 3 offset cams and ITO boxes. The destroyed wall is composed of rocks with a tile-like structure. Ice screws VTsSPS would be suitable here. Section R21–R23. Bypassing the ledge to the left onto the ridge. It is difficult to transport backpacks and drive pitons.