Zarafshan Range

Mountain range5,471.74 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the ascent via a Category 6 route on the NW wall of I-ya Zapadnaya Zamin-Karora Peak (4,303 m) on Yaghnob Wall.

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area: Yagnob wall
  3. Peak, its height and climbing route: 1st West Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1353 m; route length — 1670 m; average steepness — 87°; section lengths: 3rd category of difficulty — 200 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 10 m, 4th category of difficulty — 250 m, 5th category of difficulty — 640 m, 6th category of difficulty — 570 m.
  6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 201 pcs; chocks — 83 pcs; bolt pitons — 2 pcs.
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Description of the passage of a category 6B route to the summit I-st Western Zamin-Karora via the North-West wall.

Ascent passport.

  1. Ascent category - technical.
  2. Ascent area - Yaghnob wall.
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route: 1st Western Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the Northwest wall.
  4. Second passage of 6B route.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 1353 m, route length 1567 m, average steepness - 85°, section lengths: III cat. diff. - 200 m, II cat. diff. - 10 m, IV cat. diff. - 250 m, V cat. diff. - 620 m, VI cat. diff. - 487 m.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying:
    • rock - 231 pcs.
    • chocks - 74 pcs.
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Ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor (4303 m) via the North-West wall, 6B complexity category, made by a team of climbers in 1982.

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge. 3. V. Zamin-Karor (1st category 3) 4303 m, via NW wall (S. Samoded route) 4. 6B — difficulty category. 5. Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1290 m. Length of sections 5B–6B — 815 m. Average steepness of the rock part of the route — 70°. Average steepness of the wall part (excluding the dome) — 76°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 128 ice — 1 chocks — 155

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Description of the passage of a 6A category difficulty route to the summit I-st Western in the Gissar ridge of Pamir-Alay.

PASSPORT

  1. Class of technical ascents
  2. Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range, Yaghnob River area
  3. Zamin-Karer, I-st Western via N-3 wall (Samoded Route)
  4. Difficulty category — 6A
  5. Height difference — 1180 m, route length — 1380 m Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 1215 m, average steepness of the route — 70 degrees, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 71 degree
  6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | | :--: | :--: | :--: |
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Report on the ascent of the team from the Military Department of Mountaineering under the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions to the summit of Zamin-Karor via the NW wall, category 5B difficulty level in 1985.

1985 USSR Alpine Championship, Rock Climbing Category

Report on the Ascent of Zamin-Karor 1st Western Peak (4303 m) via the NW Wall, Category 5B (Samoded Route) by the All-Union Sports Committee of Trade Unions Alpine Club Team — "Varzob" Alpine Camp, July 20-21, 1985

Team Captain — Vyacheslav Ivanovich Glushko Team Coach — Ernes Suleimanovich Abdulaev Addresses:

  • All-Union Alpine Club of Trade Unions — 113035, Moscow, Sadovnicheskaya Naberezhnaya, 3, Building I
  • "Varzob" Alpine Camp — 734003, Dushanbe, P.O. Box 362 Team Captain:
  • Vyacheslav Ivanovich Glushko, 198255, Leningrad, Veteranov Prospect, 3, Building 2, Apt. 120, Phone 2-54-21-58
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Description of the ascent to Zamin-Karor peak (4303 m) via the northwest face, a sixth category of difficulty route, completed in 1982 by a team of climbers led by Aleksandr Bogachev.

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Hissar Range.
  3. V. Zamin-Karor (I-st W.) via NW wall (Samoded Route), 4303 m, third ascent.
  4. Sixth category of difficulty.
  5. Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1290 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 815 m. Average steepness of the rock part of the route — 70°, average steepness of the wall part (excluding the dome) — 76°.
  6. Pitons driven: | Type | Driven | Pulled out | | :--------- | :----- | :--------- | | Rock | 116 | 12 |
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Technical ascent description for a category 6 climb to Zamki-Karor summit via the North Face, Gissar Range, 4308 m.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route. I-st Western peak of Zamyk-Karor (Yaghnob wall) — 4303 m via the shortest path C-3 of the wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6th cat. of difficulty.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference — 1350 m
    • average steepness — 87°30'
    • length of sections 5–6 cat. of difficulty — 1000 m.
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The ascent was made by a team of instructors from the Varzob alpine camp of the Gadjinistan PS LSO. Route: first ascent via the shortest path along the NW wall to the Western peak of Zamin Karor (Yignob wall) — 4303 m.

Ascent Logbook

Climbing Pass Details

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Gissar Ridge 3. Climbing route First ascent via the shortest path on the NW wall of the I Western peak of Zamin Karor (Yaghnob wall) — 4303 m. 4. Climbing characteristics: height difference 1350 m, average steepness 87.5°, length of complex sections 1000 m. 5. Pitons used: rock 302 pcs., ice none, bolted 29 pcs.

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Description of a technical ascent of category 6B difficulty to the summit of Zamin Karor (4303 m) in the Hissar Range, made in 1978 by a group of climbers.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Gissar Range.
  3. Peak — Zamin Karor (4303 m) I-st Western peak via N-W wall, O. Kapitanova route.
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections:
    • IV difficulty category — 120 m
    • V difficulty category — 450 m
    • VI difficulty category — 805 m
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Description of the ascent made by the "Zenith" sports society team to the first western summit of Zamin-Karor 4303 m via the northwestern wall in 1982.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class
    • technical
  2. Ascent area
    • Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge
  3. Ascent route
    • I western peak Zamin-Karor 4303 m (via the shortest path of the NW wall)
  4. Difficulty category
    • 5B
  5. Route characteristics:
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