Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technical. 2. Ascent area — Gissar Range. 3. Ascent route — first ascent via the north wall of Peak 4630 m, Zamin-Karor NE. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1450 m, average steepness 74°, length of complex sections 1390 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock 227, ice 41, bolted 11. 6. Total climbing hours — 65. 7. Number of nights on the route — 4, all uncomfortable, semi-reclined, and in hammocks. 8. Team. The ascent was made by a team of instructors from the "Varzob" alpine camp of the CS DSO "Tadzhikistan". 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification:

I. Climbing category 2. Climbing area 3. Peak, its height, and route 4. Estimated difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference section lengths average steepness 6. Pitons hammered: for belay rock 199, ice 9, bolt 38 chocks

4290

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category – technical
2. Ascent area – Gissar Range
3. Ascent route – 3. Karor (2B) First ascent via the north wall of peak 4702
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • Height difference 1240 m
   • Average steepness 75°
   • Length of complex sections 711 m

№ 34. Zamin Karor / II / 5A cat. diff. NW buttress. V. Martynov, 1975

§ 1. General characteristics of the route

The present route (except for the upper part) runs along the northwestern buttress of Centralnaya Zamin Karor peak. In its lower part, the buttress is not clearly defined. In the upper part, the route passes along the walls of the summit and pre-summit towers. The route is logical; to the left are smoothed vertical walls, and to the right is a huge rock-snow-ice gully that exits onto the saddle between Centralnaya and Glavnaya Zamin Karor peaks; rock and ice falls occur on both sides of the route (buttress). The terrain on the route is predominantly rocky (about 86%):

• Rocks in some areas are covered with ice until they are exposed to sunlight (12–1 pm).
• The rocky terrain consists mainly of monolithic rough rocks, but there are areas of broken rocks, which requires caution and proper movement tactics due to the risk of rockfall.
• There are many thin, shallow cracks in the rocks, as well as crevices where duralumin or wooden wedges can be used. About 12–14% of the route consists of firn and ice. The total length of the route is approximately 1300–1350 m (about 33 ropes), the average steepness (excluding key sections) is about 60°, the steepness of key sections (350–400 m long) is 70–80°, and the height difference is 1000–1050 m.

Passport

I. Class of ascent — technical 2. Region of ascent — Gissar Range 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Central peak of Zamin-Karor (4303 m) via N buttress from Central Col. 4. Proposed difficulty category 5B cat. dif. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1120 m, average steepness — 68°, length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. 6. Number of pitons for belaying and creating RPS:

Ascent Passport

1. Climb category — technical
2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alay, Hissar Range
3. Peak — Zamin-Karor (Central) 4702 m via the Northwest wall
4. Proposed — 5B category, first ascent
5. Length — 1880 m Length of 5–6 category sections — 1270 m. Height difference — 1200 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 69°
6. Pitons driven: rock 145/5 chocks 201/9

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay; Gissar Ridge
3. Zamin Karor Central (4702 m) — via the right edge of the N wall
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5B. First ascent
5. Height difference of the wall section — 1125 m. Of these: lower belt — 600 m, middle part of the wall — 200 m, upper belt — 325 m. Length — 1730 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 580 m. Of these, 6 category of complexity — 90 m. Average steepness of the wall — 67°.
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |

Russian Mountaineering Federation

The approach is similar to the one to "Hosilot" peak up to the overnight stay location. From the overnight stay location, we head north-northeast along a large scree with a slope of 30–35°. Rock outcrops are often found on the scree. The landmark is an osypnaya saddle visible from below. It takes 2.5–3 hours to reach the saddle. From the saddle, we traverse the rocks with a slope of up to 30° to the left, which are covered with fine scree. The direction is towards an ice couloir that ends in a rock wall. It takes 30–40 minutes to reach the ice couloir. The ascent up the ice couloir is 150 m with a slope of 30–35° in crampons (the ice is porous). Belaying is possible on the rocks of the couloir. From the couloir, we exit onto rocks with a slope of 45–50°. The belay is with pitons, 3 × 60 m, and we reach the summit. The first ascent was made in August 1969 by: L. P. Lapshin, Candidate for Master of Sports T. N. Solovyova, Master of Sports V. I. Lavrukhin, Category I Descent is via the ascent route. Recommended category: 2B Approved

Championship of Leningrad

in mountaineering 1935 Technical class

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor 2nd Western peak via the shortest path on the NW wall, cat. 5-5, by the team of LOC DSO "Burvestnik" from August 8 to 12, 1935 Team captain — MS USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich Team coach — MS USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich.

Ascent passport

I. Ascent class

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class - technical. 2. Ascent area - Zamin Karor (Yaghnob wall). 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Zamin Karor II-Western, 4525 m, via N-W wall, qualifying (Lapshik). 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 1500 m, average steepness - 55–60°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category - 540 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 92, ice - 7, bolted - none; for creating artificial holds: rock - 7, ice - 2, bolted - none. 7. Total climbing hours - 14 hours.