Ascent Report

1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing region — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights via NNE wall of CHAPDARA 5297 m first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1947 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 960 m (including 700 m of 6B category) average steepness of the wall section — 87°.
6. Pitons hammered and chocks used for protection, for creating artificial support points:

Photo 2. Northwest wall of Chapdara. Sidelnikov's Route 1967. Kiselev's Route 1965. Photo 3. Route to Chapdara summit via northwest wall. Overnight locations. Control tours.

VII. Route Description

First Day — July 28, 1972

The team departed from a/l "Artuch" to the Alaudin Lakes area and set up a base camp. A regime of observing the route was established. The route is heavily snow-covered, but the weather seems to be settling.

Second Day — July 29, 1972

Rest and preparation for the ascent. Equipment and supplies were finalized (see Appendix). Markelov's team flew to Yaghnob; Vasiliev was sent by helicopter to take pictures of the wall. Solonnikov Viktor hiked under Chapdara's wall and chose a location for the assault camp. We observed the route through a telescope.

Third Day — July 30, 1972

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Alaudin valley
3. Chapdara peak, 5050 m, NW wall (left route)
4. Category of difficulty — 6B
5. Height difference of the route — 1740 m. Length — 1960 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1330 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73° (3300–4930), including 6 category of difficulty:

• 75° (35 m)
• 80° (40 m)
• 90° (175 m)
• 95° (60 m)

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: Technical
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Chapdara, 5197 m, West wall, V. Solonnikov's route
4. Difficulty category: 6
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 1500 m
   • Average slope: ~70°
   • Length of sections: 2020 m. R2—200 m; R4—300 m; R5—1020 m; R6—300 m

6B. 5B cat. diff. (Not on the paperwork) — to be credited as 6B 131 PASSPORT.

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.
3. Chapdara peak via the Northwest wall.
4. 6B cat. diff.
5. Height difference: 1500 m, length — 1870 m. Length of 6th grade sections — 380 m.

International Alpine Tourist Center "Vertical-Alaudin"

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Chapdara - Bodkhona, 5B, traverse (V. Ashanin's route, 68)

Report

on the first ascent of the Chapdara - Bodkhona traverse with ascent to Chapdara via the north ridge and descent from Bodkhona to the Bodkhona saddle, Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay

Chapdara Peak. North Ridge

2005–06 MATC "Vertical-Alaudin" All Rights Reserved

Ascent to Chapdara Peak (5197 m) via the north ridge

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area, range: Fan Mountains 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: P. Chaplygina, 4500 m, via the southwest ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 350-400 m, average slope 45°, length of 5th category sections 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and creating anchor points, rock/IО ice — bolted 7. Number of climbing hours: 3.5 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications: MUMDZhI T.M., CMS — leader; Nerdnikov V.M., 1st sports category; Trusenkov V.V., 1st sports category

Peak Chaplygina, 4500 m

From the overnight spot near the moraine under Chimtarga we enter the glacier under the ridge between Peak Chaplygina and Peak SO AN — 1 hour. Ascent to the ridge along the edge of the snowfield and talus (40 minutes) without a rope. On the ridge, beware of falling. Further, the path goes along the ridge with a detour around several gendarmes via ledges on the right. Insurance is alternating, through выступы (ledges or rock projections). The ridge leads to a wall with a steepness of 60–70°. Along a narrow stone ledge to the right of the ridge, two ropes with alternating insurance (2 pitons) lead to the beginning of a wide, steep chimney. Here the entire group can be accommodated. The 1st control cairn is also located here. Further, up the steep, not very pronounced chimney, sometimes interrupted by sheer 3–4 m walls, 6 ropes. Insurance is via pitons. Caution! Falling rocks! Entrance under an arch, which is bypassed on the right. Up, half a rope — a large spacious balcony with stone railings, from which there is a beautiful view of Chimtarga. On the balcony, the 2nd control cairn is set up. The path from the ridge to the 2nd control cairn takes 4 hours 30 minutes. From the balcony, 40 m of very difficult maneuvering. First, along an existing crevice, then exit to a sharp crest leading to a dangerous, talus-filled couloir. Along the couloir — to an inclined slab, and exit, bypassing the slab, to a talus ledge under an overhanging rock. These 40 m are traversed in 1.5–2 hours. Along the ledges, we traverse left and enter a steep rock gully with smoothed stones — 30 m, and further along a not difficult, destroyed ridge — exit to the summit (1 hour). Further along the ridge — the second summit. On both summits — cairns. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire path to the summit from the overnight spot — 9–10 hours. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• 2 ropes, 40 m each
• 40 m of accessory cord (repschnur)

Verkhnyaya Baika and Chaniyagina