122

All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions

Central Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Chapdara via the North face of the team from the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society August 1–7, 1970 Kustovskiy A. A. Cherevko V. A. Shilo O. A.

PASSPORT

I. Technical class. 2. Fann Mountains. Zeravshan ridge (Northern part). Alaudin lakes. 3. Chapdara peak (5050 m) via Eastern edge. 4. Category 5B (Cherevko route). 5. Elevation gain: about 1800 m. Route length 2875 m. Length of sections with U–U1 difficulty: 564 m. Average slope of the route — 57°. Average slope of the wall section — 62°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock 101 (2 used), bolted 6, chocks 154 (6 used), ice screws 3.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Chapdara, 5297 m, via the Northeast wall.
4. Expected difficulty category — 6B cat. diff., classified
5. Route characteristics — wall, total route length (sections R0–R24) — 2200 m, length of sections I–VI cat. diff. — 920 m, wall height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 85–87°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITDs: rock — 208 pcs., ice — 6 pcs., bolt — 12 pcs., chocks — 3 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours — 42 hours
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — three bivouacs: first — lying in a niche, all together; second — on a narrow ledge, three + one; third — on the ridge, platform, all together.

5.3.121

Championship of the Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society "Burevestnik", 1982. High-altitude technical class

Report

On the ascent to Chapdara Peak (5297 m) via the Eastern wall, category 6B, undertaken by the team from the Voroshilovgrad Regional Council of the Voluntary Sports Society "Burevestnik".

Team Leader	Zagirnyak M.V.
Team Coach	Lyapin Z.F.
11.08	Distance, m
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Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing region — Fann Mountains.
3. Summit Chapdara — 5297 m via the eastern face.
4. Difficulty category — 6
5. Elevation gain: from the base of the face to the summit — 1300 m, face height — 860 m, average steepness of the face — 85°, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 640 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 219, ice — 8.
7. Number of climbing hours — 47 hours.
8. Number of nights on the route — 3 nights.
9. Team members:

I. Category of technically challenging ascents 2. Area of ascent: Fann Mountains. 3. Chapdara, 5297 m, NW wall (Kiselev's route), category 5B, second ascent of the route. 4. Route description: route length — height difference — 2147 m, length of category 5 sections — 1700 m, average steepness — 70. 5. Pitons driven: rock — 103, ice — 36, chocks — 28. 6. Number of climbing hours — 41 hours. 7. Number of climbing days — 4, good bivouacs. 8. Number and description of bivouacs: three bivouacs: 1st on a snowy slope, 2nd on a narrow rocky ledge, lying down, separate; 3rd on a rocky ledge, lying down.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical.
2. Northern spur of the Eastern Fan Ridge.
3. Peak — Chapdara, height 5297 m, via the central part of the Northern wall “KOLODETS”.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2200 m, length of sections with V cat. diff. — 320 m, length of sections with VI cat. diff. — 530 m, average steepness — 85°.
6. Pitons hammered for belaying: rock and wired — 185 pcs., bolted — 6 pcs., ice — 9 pcs. For creating artificial points of support: rock and wired — 68 pcs., bolted — 11 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours — 101 h.
8. Number of overnight stays — eight, sitting and semi-reclining.

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area - Fan Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Chapdara, 5297 m, via the center of the Southeast-Eastern wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the wall section of the route: height difference - 1050 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. - 1005 m, of which 6 cat. diff. - 510 m, average steepness of the wall - 80°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying - rock - 168, bolt - 6, for creating ITO - rock - 31, bolt - 3
7. Number of climbing hours - 66
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water; 2,3 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water;

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range (Fann Mountains). 3. Chapdara Peak, 5049 m, via the right part of the NE wall. 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 5B (first ascent). 5. Route Characteristics: - Height difference — 1300 m. - Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 860 m. - Average steepness — 65° - Average steepness of the wall section — 80°

Report

on the ascent of the Artuch alpine camp instructors to Chapdara peak, 5297 m, via the NE wall (first ascent) Group composition:

• 1. Parkhomenko A.L. — Master of Sports, USSR — team leader
• 2. Shchukin V.I. — Master of Sports, USSR
• 3. Tomchik V.S. — Candidate for Master of Sports
• 4. Osipov O.F. — Candidate for Master of Sports
• 5. Vashenyuk E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports