1. Class of ascent: technical.
2. Area of ascent: Fan Mountains.
3. Peak, ascent route: p. "Energiya" (5105 m), via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Characteristics of the route. Height difference: 1063 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 55 m. Total length of the ridge horizontally: 2800 m. The route consists of three sections of varying difficulty: a) ridge 2–3 cat. diff. — average steepness 10°, horizontal length 1900 m; b) ascent 4–5 cat. diff. — average steepness 50°, horizontal length 500 m; c) pre-summit ridge 3 cat. diff. — average steepness 30°, horizontal length 400 m.
6. 26 rock pitons were hammered on the route, 20 chocks were used — all for belays.

Energy. 4A. Via the Eastern Ridge.

Table of Contents

From the author:

• Passage log
• Route in UIAA symbols
• Approach description R0–R1. Start from the overnight stay on the Kaznok Pass — 7:00 R1–R2. At station R2 — 11:00 R2–R3 R3–R4

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Ascent route, peak, its height — p. Energiya, 5100 m, Northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m. route length — 4450 m. length of 5th difficulty category sections — 770 m. average steepness — 65–70°

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT BY THE TEAM OF ALPINISM SECTION NOVOSIBIRSK REGIONAL COUNCIL SPORTS SOCIETY «SPARTAK» TO THE SUMMIT ENERGY VIA THE WESTERN FACE CATEGORY 5B DIFFICULTY (APPROX.) IN ACCOUNT OF CHAMPIONSHIP CS SSS «SPARTAK» OF 1967 IN ALPINISM IN THE CLASS OF ALTITUDE-TECHNICAL ASCENTS

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, its height, ascent route — Mt. YUBILEYNAYA, 3600 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed difficulty category — 1B.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, total route length — 900 m, average steepness — 35°.
5. Pitons hammered in: for belaying — 4 pcs.
6. Number of climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none.

Area: Pamir, Fann Mountains. Route: traverse of p. Bezymyannyj — p. Vuanlo (category 3B difficulty) — first ascent. Climbing date: from July 31 to August 1, 1973.

Route Description

The approach to the peaks goes along the left side of the Akhbasay river to the place where the two rivers merge. P. Bezymyannyj is clearly visible from the overnight location, to the right is Sakharnaya Golova. The ascent to p. Bezymyannyj begins along the eastern ridge. The beginning of the route goes through rocks of medium difficulty. We pass 6 ropes, a large gendarme appears, which must be bypassed on the right. After bypassing the gendarme, you need to descend 10 m down. The next gendarme is passed along the ridge. The path to the peak is clearly visible. Sequentially, you need to pass 3 gendarmes:

• 1st — bypassed on the left;
• 2nd and 3rd — passed head-on. Before the summit, there is a steep climb, which must be passed very carefully: many loose rocks; for insurance, you need to drive in pitons. From the north, the summit is snowy. We didn't find a cairn on the summit, so we built our own and left a note. Next is the traverse to Vuanlo peak (4239 m).

9. Ascent to the summit of "Palangi-Safed" (White Bars). (approx. 4A) (from Omsk Pass). The summit "Palangi-Safed" (White Bars) (4565 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the southern spur of the summit Bolshaya Ganza to the east of the Arg river gorge. The peak is rocky, without snow cover, ice is found in crevices and chimneys facing north. The rocks are very destroyed, but have few cracks for hammering in rock pitons. In the cracks, wedges can be used for belaying. No notes were found at the summit. The approach to the summit is from Lake Iskanderkul up the Sarytog River, then along the Arg River and then up the Anzak River and its right tributary (along the way) to the Omsk Pass. By the second half of summer, both these rivers (Anzak and its tributary) become very shallow and even get lost among the stones. It is better to spend the night under the pass, where there is water, firewood, and no wind. The ascent begins to the north of the Omsk Pass, at the beginning of the ridge. First, we go along a steep internal angle 20 m long and exit to a large site. Along the site, we approach the rocks and, turning right, along a ledge we approach a cleft. We ascend the cleft to a protruding stone, convenient for belaying. From the stone, right and up 20 m along a wide crack, we exit to the second site. On it, a control cairn was left. To the right of the site are cliffs. Further up 20 m along a steep couloir, and then 40 m up the rocks of medium difficulty. Then left and 35 m along an inclined oblique fissure. Ahead is the first gendarme (Path from the large site to gendarme No. 1 in the photo). We ascended the gendarme along an inclined shelf and after a 30-meter descent from it along a sharp ridge, we reached a saddle. Behind it is the second gendarme. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right and along slabs with a steepness of 60° we exit to gendarme No. 3, which is bypassed on the left along heavily destroyed rocks.

SUMMIT: BELY BARS (4505 m) Via the southern ridge, 4A category of difficulty, rock Description of the first ascent made on July 27, 1967 by a group led by Davydenko V.N. (Chelyabinsk region, Miass) Description compiled by: Davydenko / leader Chelyabinsk Regional Alpine Federation 1967

1. Introduction

In the ridge located south of the peak Bolshaya Ganza, between the passes Omsk and Anzak, lies the peak Bely Bars (Lalangi Safet - the Tajik name, means "White Leopard"). The first ascent - according to information provided to us by the well-known expert on the Fann Mountains, Mr. Paganutsi N.V. (Karaganda) - was made via the southwestern short edge (route 3B category of difficulty, unclassified) by a group from Karaganda in 1962. Approaches to the Omsk pass from the northwest from the Arg river area and from the southeast from Lake Iskanderkul take 3-4 hours. The peak Bely Bars is clearly visible from the area of the peaks Saharnaya Golova, Kaltsit, and Krasnye Zori, and the group's path - from under the Omsk pass on the western side.

I. Climbing category: combined technical 2. Climbing area: Fann Mountains 3. Белый Барс, 4505, via N. Ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, sections 5–6 cat. diff. 240 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belay 42, for artificial holds II, including 50 rock, 2 ice, 1 bolt, total 53. 7. Total climbing hours: 21 hours 8. Number of nights: 1, semi-reclining 9. Petrov Andrey Evgenievich — leader, 1st sports category, instructor Averyanov German Petrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor

12 ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class — TECHNICAL.
2. Ascent area: – 5.3. PAMIR-ALAI, Zeravshan Range, Malaya Ganza glacier valley.
3. Summit — BELY KLJUCH, 4900 m, via south-west face — FIRST ASCENT.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. dif.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 877 m « — 6 cat. dif. — 127 m