Ascent Report

  1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.

  2. Climbing region — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.

  3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights

via NNE wall of CHAPDARA 5297 m first ascent.

  1. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
  2. Route characteristics: height difference 1947 m

length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 960 m (including 700 m of 6B category) average steepness of the wall section — 87°.

  1. Pitons hammered and chocks used for protection, for creating artificial support points: rock — 253 (23)

bolts — 16 (2), ice screws — 10 (0), chocks — 66 (23).

  1. Number of climbing hours — 94 hours.
  2. Number of nights and their characteristics:

7 nights, including:

  • sitting on a ledge with water — 1
  • sitting on a ledge without water — 1
  • hanging bivouacs without water — 5
  1. Team of instructors from "Artooch" alpine camp. Full name, position, and qualification of the team leader and participants: 1. Parkhomenko Alexander Leontievich — Master of Sports of the USSR — team leader.
  2. Pukin Vladimir Ivanovich — Master of Sports of the USSR
  3. Tomchik Vitaly Silvestrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
  4. Osipov Oleg Fedorovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
  5. Vashenyuk Eduard Vladimirovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
  6. Serebryakov Yuri Alekseevich — Candidate for Master of Sports II. Team coach — Master of Sports of the USSR Pumilov Oleg Ivanovich. R2. Date of departure and return: departure July 30, 1981.

3rd place. 6 hours from the start return August 7, 1981.

Attached files

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment