Peak Chaplygina, 4500 m

From the overnight spot near the moraine under Chimtarga we enter the glacier under the ridge between Peak Chaplygina and Peak SO AN — 1 hour. Ascent to the ridge along the edge of the snowfield and talus (40 minutes) without a rope. On the ridge, beware of falling. Further, the path goes along the ridge with a detour around several gendarmes via ledges on the right. Insurance is alternating, through выступы (ledges or rock projections). The ridge leads to a wall with a steepness of 60–70°. Along a narrow stone ledge to the right of the ridge, two ropes with alternating insurance (2 pitons) lead to the beginning of a wide, steep chimney. Here the entire group can be accommodated. The 1st control cairn is also located here. Further, up the steep, not very pronounced chimney, sometimes interrupted by sheer 3–4 m walls, 6 ropes. Insurance is via pitons. Caution! Falling rocks! Entrance under an arch, which is bypassed on the right. Up, half a rope — a large spacious balcony with stone railings, from which there is a beautiful view of Chimtarga. On the balcony, the 2nd control cairn is set up. The path from the ridge to the 2nd control cairn takes 4 hours 30 minutes.

From the balcony, 40 m of very difficult maneuvering. First, along an existing crevice, then exit to a sharp crest leading to a dangerous, talus-filled couloir. Along the couloir — to an inclined slab, and exit, bypassing the slab, to a talus ledge under an overhanging rock. These 40 m are traversed in 1.5–2 hours.

Along the ledges, we traverse left and enter a steep rock gully with smoothed stones — 30 m, and further along a not difficult, destroyed ridge — exit to the summit (1 hour).

Further along the ridge — the second summit. On both summits — cairns.

Descent is via the ascent route.

The entire path to the summit from the overnight spot — 9–10 hours.

Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• 2 ropes, 40 m each
• 40 m of accessory cord (repschnur)
• rock pitons — 12 pieces
• 2 hammers
• ice axes
• carabiners