Chapdara. Northwest view. Fann Mountains are very popular among mountaineers. This is due to:

• stable weather
• beautiful nature
• relatively easy access to the climbing area From a sporting perspective, the area is characterized by a sufficient number of routes of any difficulty category: from 1 to 6. The routes are generally purely rock and require good rock climbing skills and suitable footwear. The five-thousander peaks of Chapdara and Bodkhona are particularly popular, with all routes having a complexity category of at least 5. The ascent to Chapdara is usually done from the base camp near the Alauddin lakes. When ascending via the right part of the NW wall:
• the path from the base camp to the overnight stay on the Chapdara glacier moraine takes 2–2.5 hours;
• from the overnight stay to the start of the route takes 30–40 minutes.

The route was climbed for the second time.

Ascent Details

1. Climbing category
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: Chapdara peak (5197 m) via the right side of the western wall.
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 5197 – 2730 = 2467 m average steepness 55–60° length of the complex section 60 meters
5. Pitons used:

Ascent to Chapdara Peak, 5049 m via the North Ridge, cat. 5A (through the "Sphinx")

Climbing Passport

1. Class: technical
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.
3. Chapdara, 5049 m, via the North Ridge (through the "Sphinx").
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Elevation gain: 1100 m (wall section – 580 m) Length – 1800 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 580 m. Average steepness of the wall section – 55°.
6. Pitons driven: rock ice

1.	Classification of the route:	Technical.
2.	Mountain region:	Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains.
3.	Name of the peak, height, route:	Peak Chapdara (5049 m), via N ridge.
4.	Category of complexity:	5A (Russia)
5.	Description of the route:	A/l "Alaudin" — Talbas Pass — "Sphinx" shoulder — Peak Chapdara — descent to the Bodkhona valley — A/l "Alaudin".

Report

on the ascent of team No. 1 of the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club to the summit of Chapdara (5049 m) via the North Ridge Magnitogorsk 2010 Captain: Shadrina Tatyana Valeryevna, Nizhnyaya Salda, 1 Microdistrict, bld. 1, apt. 26 Coaches:

• Soldatov Sergey Yuryevich, 455017 Magnitogorsk, Izmailovsky Lane, bld. 5, tel.: (3519) 22-40-97
• Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich, 455000 Magnitogorsk, Lenin Ave., 37, apt. 23, tel.: (3519) 20-82-17, e-mail: iavare.ivi@gmail.com

Ascent Passport

1. Competition class: EASC Championship, technical class.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents
2. Fann Mountains
3. Chapdara, 5000 m via North Ridge
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference — 1281 m, length — 1985 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 585 m. Average steepness of main sections — 55°, of the route — 42°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 35, chocks — 42, ice screws — 17

From Bid with Naudin Lakes

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge, Alaudin Valley.
3. Chapdara peak (5053 m) via North-West wall
4. First ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative), combined
5. Height difference — 1650 m, length — 2230 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1055 m, including 6 category of difficulty — 465 m. Average steepness of the route — 71°. Average steepness of the wall section — 77° (3400–4775)
6. Number of pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolt | Ice |

PASSPORT

I Technical Class 2 Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Alaudin Valley. 3 Chapdara peak (5053 m) via NW wall 4 First ascent, category 6 difficulty (tentative), combined 5 Height difference — 1650 m, length — 2230 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1055 m, including 6 category — 465 m. Average route steepness — 71°. Average steepness of the wall section — 77° (3400–4775 m).

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Chapdara (5297 m) via the left part of the western wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty.

Team of Sports Club "Polytechnic"

August 20–23, 1971

Team Composition

1. Petrov M.V. — team leader	1st sports category
2. Karkoshko I.V. — participant	1st sports category
3. Gavrilov G.A. — participant	1st sports category
4. Bril A.G. — participant	2nd sports category