1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area - Fan Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Chapdara, 5297 m, via the center of the Southeast-Eastern wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the wall section of the route: height difference - 1050 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. - 1005 m, of which 6 cat. diff. - 510 m, average steepness of the wall - 80°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying - rock - 168, bolt - 6, for creating ITO - rock - 31, bolt - 3
7. Number of climbing hours - 66
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water; 2,3 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water; 4 - on a rock ledge, lying, with water; 5 - on a scree slope, lying, with water.
9. Surname, first name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, their qualification:
10. Zhurzdin Vladimir Iosifovich - MS - captain
11. Ivanchin Ivan Andreevich - MS
12. Penchuk Valentin Lavrentyevich - MS
13. Boiko Valery Viktorovich - CMS
14. Ryabov Nikolai Alexandrovich - CMS
15. Efimov Viktor Borisovich - CMS
16. Team coach - Penchuk Valentin Lavrentyevich - MS
17. Date of departure and return July 19-24, 1980

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE

July 19. Early rise, breakfast, packing, and at 7:00 the team sets out from the observers' bivouac onto the route. Bypassing the rock gendarme, crossing the snow couloir and the rock slope in front of the wall takes 3 hours 10 minutes.

The route begins with a steep rock slope (sect. 1) with smoothed rocks and scree ledges. The steepness of the slope gradually increases from 60° at the beginning to 80-90° at the end (after 80 m); the slope gradually turns into a wall, up which a crack (sect. 2) leads to the beginning of an internal corner, ending after 30 m with an overhanging plug. The pair Efimov-Ryabov moves up the left wall of this corner under the overhang. The wall is without cracks, with holds for one finger phalanx (sect. 3). Above the plug, a narrow ledge under the overhanging wall goes up to the right and after 20 m widens to 0.5 m (sect. 4). Further, the route goes through a system of internal and external corners and walls, alternating with diagonal ledges (sect. 5 and 6) in the direction of the center of the spotted wall "Zebra".

In the lower part of the SE-E wall (sect. 1-5) up to 1500 m it is very hot, due to the radiation from the ice cirque under the wall, which makes movement difficult. There is no water. At 20:00 the group stops for the night on a narrow ledge. For the day, 4.5 ropes and the approach under the wall were completed.

July 20. The pair Boiko-Zhurzdin starts moving up the wall (sect. 6) at 6:00 towards the large (red) internal corner with an overhanging right side. This corner divides the SE-E wall into two parts, the left of which includes the "zebra", and the right one with a more rugged relief gradually goes beyond the bend above the couloir separating the E and SE-E walls. The internal corner (sect. 7) is passed along the left forming wall, with pitons being driven into the right overhanging wall of the corner. After 40 m of the corner - along smoothed slabs, the route goes left-up under the base of the spotted wall (sect. 8). Here the group gathered at 14:30.

Up 300 m rises the smooth spotted wall - "zebra", covering the rest of the route. The granite rocks (dark) have inclusions of white quartz rocks, which determines the color of the wall.

The pair Boiko-Ryabov starts processing the "zebra", while the rest, descending 10 m down to a steep scree ledge, begin to set up a bivouac. It is possible to level a small area where 4 people can sit, and a little lower there is a platform for another 2 people.

Here, directly under the center of the base of the "zebra" (10-12 m below), the 1st control cairn is set up. There is no water.

By 20:00 the pair manages to process 65 m (sect. 9) of the spotted wall and approach a long transverse cornice. July 21. At 7:00 the pair Ryabov-Boiko sets out to further process the wall. The long transverse cornice (sect. 10) is passed straight on, using artificial holds (pitons, ladders); 5 bolt pitons are driven in the approach to it, as the wall is monolithic here, without cracks or holds. After the cornice, a crack goes up the wall, turning in some places into overhanging internal corners and chimneys (sect. 11). After 40 m Profile of the SE-E wall. Photo of the SE-E wall from shooting point 5. the crack goes slightly to the right to a large red corner, which is blocked one after another by 3 large cornices. Having processed the first of these cornices, the pair descends to the night at 20:00. On the wall under the long transverse cornice, the 2nd control cairn is set up. July 22. At 7:00 the group starts ascending the spotted wall. Water ran out yesterday, and the team is thirsty. The pair Boiko-Zhurzdin is in front. All the suspended ropes are practically hanging in the air. Very difficult climbing when passing part of the corner with 3 large cornices. The cornices are passed according to the scheme: under the cornice - left from under the cornice - onto the cornice (sect. 12). Above the 3rd of these cornices, from a small plug in the corner, the route goes right-up along the wall with rugged relief (sect. 13) to an inclined ledge with a snowpatch. Here a bivouac is set up with a normal almost horizontal bedding. Finally, there is snow. Above us there are still 300 m of wall with a huge cornice-balcony at the top. The route goes in the direction left of the balcony. July 23. At 8:00 the group starts moving along the edge of the snow ledge up along the destroyed rock slope (sect. 14). As the group ascends, the steepness of the slope increases, and the state of the wall changes - loose stones remain below, large blocks (sect. 16) turn into monolithic walls (sect. 17). The pair Zhurzdin-Efimov is in front. At 120 m from the snowpatch, at the base of the monolithic walls (sect. 16), the 3rd control cairn is set up. The route goes along the wall in the direction of the gray cornice (sect. 17), directly under which the wall becomes smooth with a small number of cracks and holds (sect. 18), requiring the use of artificial holds. From under the cornice, the route goes left-up along internal corners with overhangs and plugs (sect. 19) to the base of a sheer wall, the top of which is covered by a system of cornices like a visor (sect. 20). At 19:00 Efimov reached the scree ledges on the slopes of the southern ridge. Here the group settled for a bivouac. July 24. At 9:00 the group set out on the final section of the route. After 120 m of scree ledges and rock walls (sect. 21), the group passed the last 80 m of the destroyed rock slope (sect. 22) and reached the southern pre-summit ridge (sect. 23). At 13:00 the team climbed to the summit, and at 19:00 descended to the base camp.

Some routes of the highest difficulty category passed by the team members:

1. Dzhigit via N wall - 5B - first ascent
2. " - " via NW wall - 5B - " - "
3. Komakademiya via W wall - 5B - " - "
4. Tashtanbek via NW wall - 5B - " - "
5. Chapdara via the center of N wall - 6B - " - " Vinokurov's route
6. Zindon via N wall - 6B - Emelyanenko's route
7. Zindon via the center of N wall - 6B - Shumilov's route
8. Chapdara via NW wall - 6B - Solonnikov's route
9. Bodkhona via Vlodarchik's route - 6B
10. Doks-Tai - Koshtan-Tau - 6B The experience of ascents allows the team to evaluate the route via the SE-E wall on p. Chapdara as 6B cat. diff.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to p. Chapdara via the SE-E wall, 6B cat. diff.

Ascent to the summit at 13:00, descent from the summit to the moraine of gl. Bodkhona at 16:30. Team captain - V.I. Zhurzdin Coach - V.L. Penchuk