Zarafshan Range

Mountain range5,471.74 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of a category 4B route on the northeast wall of Urech peak in the Zeravshan Range, first ascent, details of the approach and key sections of the route.

View (34 a0) with CAs nC 2/mi–771. The summit of Urech is located in the northern spur of the nodal peak of Aurondag of the Zeravshan ridge, and more precisely, it closes this spur from the north. To the south, v. Urech slightly rises above the ridge (150 m) and the ascent to it is quite simple. To the west, northwest, north, and east from the summit, ridges diverge. According to the information from KSP in the summer of 1977, the following routes were climbed:

  • eastern ridge
  • western ridge Both routes are not classified, and according to the estimates of the groups that made
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Description of a 3rd category complexity rock climbing route to the summit, duration 4-5 hours, special equipment required.

The arch is located to the right and above (I50 m) of the cave. There is a control tour on the arch. The exit from the cave to the right seems easier, but having passed a relatively simple rope, one has to overcome three ropes of difficult climbing with an exit to the same main arch. The right variant of the exit from the cave is more complicated than the left one. From the control tour upwards along grey rocks with black streaks and further along the system of shelves and rocks of medium difficulty to the left and upwards to the grey-yellow rock protruding from the wall (three ropes from the tour). From the arch between the wall and the grey-yellow rock

  • ascent upwards along the inner corner with a slight overhang in the upper part. Further:
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Description of a new 4th category difficulty rock climbing route to the top of Uréch (3400 m) via a spur on the North-East wall in the Fann Mountains.

9. Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent Class
  • Rock climbing.
  1. Ascent Area
  • Fann Mountains, northern ridge of the nodal peak Aurondag in the Zarafshan Range.
  1. Urech Peak, height 3400 m, route
  • via the spur of the northeastern wall.
  1. Proposed difficulty category
  • 4B.
  1. Height difference 690 m, average steepness — 65°–70°
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Description of a 5B category route to the summit of Urech via the right part of the northern wall in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a team of two climbers in one day.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock climbing
  2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
  3. v. Urech (3400 m) via the right part of the North face
  4. Proposed 5B category, second ascent
  5. Height difference 700 m. Route length 955 m. Length of section with 6 category difficulty – 95 m. Length of sections with 4–5 category difficulty – 395 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route 66°
  6. Pitons hammered: rock 31
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Ascent to the summit of Fagi-Tor (3900 m) via the southern ridge, grade 3A, a rock route with an altitude difference of 600 m.

V. Fagitor, 3A, via the Southern Ridge (V. Babeshko route)

Climbing category: rock climbing. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Fagitor (3900 m), 3A, via the Southern Ridge. Difficulty category: 3A. Route characteristics: — elevation gain — 600 m.

Route Description

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### Route Description to Fagitor Peak Details on the ascent route, critical sections, protection, and descent via the southern ridge down to Muttnyye Lakes.

Brief description of the route approach:

  • From the base camp at Alaudin lakes, follow the trail to Mutnye lakes (3 hours).
  • From the overnight stay at Mutnye lakes, ascend via the scree couloir (snowy at the beginning of summer), to the left of the Fagitor peak wall, to the level of large snow shelves - 20-30 minutes.

Map of the ascent area

700 m, 2/25, 45° slope, 29 cm, 10 hours. 9/11-797. 15. Sazanov +5 people (1B) Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

Brief explanation for the table

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Description of a 3rd category difficulty mountain route on rocky terrain to the summit 24200 in the Fan Mountains of the Pamir.

  1. Reconstruction class: rock
  2. Reconstruction area: Pamir, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
  3. Factor 24200 (along the S-3 ridge)
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 3
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference 700 m, length of sections 5 km
  • difficulty — 25 m
  • average steepness of the wall section — 45°
  • overall — 37°
  1. Number of travel hours — 10
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Ascent to the summit of Khodzha-Ravat (3600 m) along the western ridge, difficulty category 2B, the first ascent by a group led by G. Smirnov in 1973.

Ascent Passport 208

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Khodzha-Ravat, 3600 m via W ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m, average steepness — 37 degrees, route length 1150 m. 6. Number of rock pitons hammered for belay — 7. 7. Number of climbing hours — 5 hours. 8. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

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Report on the passage of category 3B route to the summit of Khodzharavat via the left counterfort of the southern wall, the first ascent by the team of the Barnaul Alpine Club.

Report

of the Barnaul Alpine Club (BaKA) team on the ascent of Khodzharaivat peak via the left buttress of the southern wall first ascent, category III complexity, oriented Participants: Lezhnev A.P., Babushkina O.M., Mentovskaya A.A.

Ascent Details

  1. Gissaro-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains — northern part, 5.3.1
  2. Khodzharaivat, 3600 m (requires clarification, presumably lower), via the left buttress of the southern wall.
  3. Proposed category III complexity, first ascent.
  4. Route type: rock climbing.
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Climbing certificate for the peak HSDDA-RAWAT (3600 m) via the right buttress of the western wall in the Fann Mountains, difficulty category 4B.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Region of ascent, mountain range — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — v. HSDDA-RAWAT (peak 3600) 3600 m., via the right buttress of the western wall. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B 5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 600 m, length of the route, sections of 5–6 cat. diff. — 280 m, average steepness — 65 degrees. 6. Number of rock pitons hammered for belay — 52

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