ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing capsule: Skalny
2. Climbing area, ridge: 5.3. Zaravshan ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Diemar (4000 m) via the north face, category 5B difficulty
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty 379 m
   • Average steepness 66°
6. Other removable protection points hammered:
   • rock T22 — 38
   • for creating intermediate anchor points (rock) — 7

Description

The ascent was made in August 1972 by the group from the "Artuch" alpine camp (Spartak recreation center, Leningrad Mountain Society) consisting of:

1. Rezentuller A., 2nd category, leader,
2. Guryan D., 1st category,
3. Vestrova I., 2nd category,
4. Dyktaykov V., 2nd category,
5. Efimov V., 2nd category The Maly Diamar peak (3600m) is located in the eastern part of the Diamar massif and is separated from the Diamar peak by a wide, lowered section of the ridge with isolated rock outcrops. A steep, wide, rocky descent branches off the slope from the summit.

ры­же­в цве­та was not translated as per the instruction to keep the original text for non-Russian quotes/passages; however, the rest of the given text is translated as follows: Reddish-colored rock, the cliff is bypassed on the right, 20 m, 2 hooks. From the site, 3 m left-down along the shelf, under the slipping, unfolded to the left, vertical column of legs is inside the inner corner with a wide crack inside. Up the corner —

• 35 m, 4 hooks, climbing is difficult. At the top — a convenient site for belaying. These 2 ropes — the first key point of the route. Further, there is a gentle ridge with several gendarmes. Between the gendarmes, the movement is simultaneous. The first two gendarmes are bypassed, the first one — — to the right, with belaying for ledges, the second — to the left along a wide scree shelf at its base. The third gendarme is overcome initially head-on, 20 m, belaying

On simple rocks, 60 m straight up to the first control cairn in a rope team. From the cairn, on black monolithic rocks of medium difficulty, 80 m straight up to the base of a pronounced inner corner. Then:

• 40 m to the right of the corner on rocks of above average difficulty;
• then bypassing a black-rigid spall on the right;
• exit to the ridge of the buttress. Protection is by pitons. Further along the left side of the ridge:
• 40 m on rocks of medium difficulty;
• 80 m on easy rocks — exit left under a 10-meter chimney. After the chimney — move right into an inner corner and 40 m of climbing of medium difficulty — exit to the ridge of the buttress under a gendarme with a red rock on it.

Ascents

1. Ascent class: Technical ascent class.
2. Ascent area, peak: Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (53)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zamok peak, height 5070 m, ascent route via the West face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference
   • length of sections 5–6

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range, Alauddin valley
3. p. Zamok, 5070 m, via West Face, Ilyin V. route
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Height difference: 650 m. Length: 1330 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 52°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 300–350 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Nuts | Friends |

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range, Alauddin valley
3. p. Zamok, 5070 m, via West wall, Ilyin V. route
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Elevation gain: 650 m. Distance: 1330 m. Average slope of the main part of the route 52° Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 300–350 m.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Sports organization: Kazakh Climbers' Club. 2. Ascent category: high-altitude, technically challenging. 3. Assault leader: Venckovskiy Gennadiy Zdislavovich. 1st sports category — 31 years old. 4. Participants: Akchurin, Marat Khasanovich, 1st sports category; Vereshchagin, Sergey Igorevich, 1st sports category; Il'inskiy, Aleksandr Fedorovich — 1st sports category. 5. Peak name, height: p. Zamok, 5070 m. 6. Geographic area: Pamiro-Alay, Fan Mountains. 7. Route: NW edge, rock. 8. Route height: 1445 m.

REPORT

on the ascent to the Zamok peak via the northwestern edge (G. Venckovsky's route, 68), category 5A, from August 1, 2019, to August 2, 2019.

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Merkurieva V.A. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Zhdanov I.M. — 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach
1.4	Organization
2.	Characteristics of the ascent object

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations — Zamok peak via the central bastion of the Western wall, 5103 m.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 650 m, average steepness — 60°, length of the difficult section — 23 m and 160 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 104, ice — 0, bolt — 3.
6. Total climbing hours — 27 hours.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — two, good, water and snow available.
8. Team name — LOK DSO "Zenit".
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification — Oshe E.A. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports, Popov V.I. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, Litvinov A.N. — participant, 1st sports category, Rybakov M.I. — participant, 1st sports category, Polyakov G.A. — participant, 1st sports category, Eltyshev A.I. — participant, 1st sports category.