Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations — Zamok peak via the central bastion of the Western wall, 5103 m.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 650 m, average steepness — 60°, length of the difficult section — 23 m and 160 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 104, ice — 0, bolt — 3.
6. Total climbing hours — 27 hours.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — two, good, water and snow available.
8. Team name — LOK DSO "Zenit".
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification — Oshe E.A. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports, Popov V.I. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, Litvinov A.N. — participant, 1st sports category, Rybakov M.I. — participant, 1st sports category, Polyakov G.A. — participant, 1st sports category, Eltyshev A.I. — participant, 1st sports category.
10. Team coach — Stepanov V.V.
11. Date of departure and return — July 25, 1976 – July 27, 1976

Zamok 5A–5B Oshe

Zamok 5B

Description

Ascent to Zamok peak via the Central bastion of the Western wall (first ascent, approximately 5B category of difficulty)

Route landmarks:

• Couloir cutting through the entire western wall in the middle (start of the route);
• Inclined ledge going to the right of the couloir from right to left upwards (middle of the route);
• Central bastion (upper part of the route).

From the bivouac on the moraine under the Western wall of Zamok peak in the direction of the couloir cutting through the Western wall. Then to the right onto the ridge of "barany lby" with scree ledges to the right of the couloir and along it (the ridge) to the base of the wall. (From the bivouac 25–30 minutes). 40 m left upwards along a characteristic internal corner, steep in the lower part (up to 90°) and turning into a ledge in the upper part. From the ledge upwards along the "ryzhi ugol" (85°) — 8 m of very difficult climbing (smooth rocks, few cracks) and then left upwards 15 m to scree ledges leading under rocks like "barany lby" (few cracks for piton placement). To the right in the direction of the "mokry ugol" and along it 25 m upwards. Climbing is difficult in the lower part and average in the upper part. Exit onto a ledge under overhanging rocks.

Along the ledge 60 m left upwards (caution! fine scree on a smooth slab) to a flat area, from which a crack goes right upwards.

Along the crack right upwards 50 m to an internal corner with a red cornice at the top. Climbing is of average difficulty and difficult.

Along the internal corner under the cornice 8 m — difficult climbing. The cornice is passed on the right and then along the crack with difficult and average difficulty climbing 40 m upwards-to the right to flattening slab-like rocks and scree ledges. Along the slab-like rocks and ledges — under the wall. (Possible bivouac organization. No water.) To the left upwards goes an inclined slab, clearly visible from the bivouac and Mутные ozera. Left upwards along the slab (average difficulty climbing) 90 m (few handholds, many small stones on the slab, sections of ice) — under the wall (1st control point). Along it 30 m left upwards to the flattening part of the slab and along a 3 m vertical wall — to the upper part of the slab leading under the wall of the bastion (40 m, ice on some sections).

On the ledge under the base of the bastion, a bivouac can be organized.

The bastion is climbed directly.

Detours are extremely dangerous:

• Detour to the right of the bastion — along icy chimneys and internal corners — very difficult and dangerous due to falling stones and ice.
• Detour to the left — very difficult and also dangerous due to rockfall.

On a horizontal ledge under an overhang protecting a possible bivouac from falling stones from above — 2nd control point. It is recommended to organize a bivouac on the ledge and process the route section. Climbing on the bastion is done without backpacks. Pulling up backpacks with ropes 40–50 m (the first ascenders had 80 m ropes and block-clamps). There are three platforms on the bastion where 2–3 people can gather (every 40–50 m).

From the platform straight up along a chimney with a crack (steepness 90°) — the upper part overhangs. Passed using wooden wedges for protection, overhanging parts — using ladders. A distinctive feature of the start of the bastion — a peculiar rock "finger" (1 m high, 0.2 m thick) protruding from the crack. Climbing is extremely difficult — 40 m (pulling up backpacks from a small ledge by 2 people).

Along a vertical, slightly overhanging internal corner with a slit and an overhang in the lower and upper parts (extremely difficult climbing) — left-upwards to a characteristic protrusion with a chip (10 m). On the protrusion, 2 people can stand.

Further:

• Left (3 m), bypassing the wall;
• Upwards along the internal corner with difficult, destroyed rocks under a cornice (15 m);
• Traverse under the cornice left (5 m);
• Straight up along vertical, destroyed rocks — exit to a small platform for 2–3 people (20 m, pulling up backpacks).

Straight up through an overhanging rock forehead into an internal corner and along it straight up 20 m. Climbing is very difficult. Further 45 m — wall. Climbed directly:

• first along the left part,
• then from left to right under a cornice.

Few handholds, no cracks. For safety, 3 bolt pitons are used in the middle part for protection (extremely difficult climbing).

The cornice is made of "live" stones. Climbing is extremely cautious and difficult (6 m). In the upper part, a horizontal ledge (pulling up backpacks (60 m)).

Further 5 m up along the wall — exit to the upper part of the bastion. 10 m down — to a scree ledge. A good place for a bivouac. Depending on weather conditions, there may be ice nearby. Scree covers the entire summit dome. From here along scree fields 150–200 m right upwards to Zamok peak. Descent via the route of 1B category of difficulty.

R16–R17. Many "live" stones on the "lby". The start of the "bastion" is visible in the center.

R17–R19. Start of the "bastion". A characteristic "paltsev" is visible. Zamok 5B.

R22–R23. Exit to traverse under the cornice Zamok 5B.

R27–R29. The cornice is visible in the upper part.

Appendix 2

Team Captain E.A. Oshe