Zarafshan Range

Mountain range5,471.74 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of a category 6 difficulty route to the summit of Bodhona (5302 m) via the west wall in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1978.

Passport

  1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
  2. Climbing region — Fann Mountains.
  3. Peak Bodhona — 5302 m via the right part of the West face (Senchin – Konchin route).
  4. Difficulty category — 6.
  5. Height difference: from the base of the wall to the summit 1400 m. Average steepness of the wall 80°. Length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 600 m.
  6. Number of pitons: rock — 284.
  7. Total climbing hours — 4930 hours.
  8. Number of nights on the route — 3 nights.
  9. Team composition:
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Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the classic route, key challenges, and necessary skills for successfully conquering the world's highest peak.

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### Route Description to Bodhona Peak via the Left Section of the West Face Technical specifications and details on navigating the route.

Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Fann Mountains 3. Bodhona Peak, via the left part of the western wall, Zhitenev's route 4. Height difference: 965 m, length 1120 m. Length of sections: 6th cat. diff. – 540 m, 5th cat. diff. – 210 m. Average steepness of the route is 85°. 5. Number of pitons:

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Ascent description of the Bodhona Peak (5138 m) in the Fann Mountains via the route of category 6A difficulty through the left part of the western wall.

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical class
  2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
  3. Bodkhona, 5138 m, via the left part of the western wall (A. Moshnikov's route, 2nd ascent)
  4. Difficulty category: 6A
  5. Height difference: 1100 m (wall section — 700 m) Length: 1900 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 70 °
  6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | placements | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :------: | :-: |
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### Description of Route 6A cat. via the left part of the western wall to Bodkhona Peak (5138 m) in the Fann Mountains.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Technical category
  2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
  3. Bodhona, 5138 m, via the left part of the western wall (A. Moshnikov's route, 2nd ascent)
  4. Category: 6A
  5. Height difference: 1100 m (wall section — 700 m) Distance: 1900 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 70°
  6. Pitons used: | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws | | :--: | :----: | :--------: | :-------: |
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Description of the route to the summit of Sev. Bodhona (5300) via the north wall, category 5B difficulty level, climbed by the LGS DSO "Spartak" team in 1979.

  1. Climbing class - technically challenging.
  2. Climbing area - Fan Mountains.
  3. Route - peak S. Bodkhona (5300) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B.'s route, 1968, 2nd ascent).
  4. Climbing characteristics: route length - 3270 m, height difference - 2100 m, average steepness - 75°, length of difficult sections - 520 m, 6th category of difficulty.
  5. Pitons hammered:
  • rock (including stoppers) - 292
  • ice - 4
  1. Number of climbing hours - 40
  2. Number of nights - 4 (all comfortable)
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Description of the route to the summit of Sev. Bodhona (5300 m) via the north wall, category 5B difficulty level, third ascent in 1979.

Ascent Certificate

I. Ascent category — technically challenging. 2. Ascent region — Fann Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodkhona (5300 m) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B.'s route, 1968, 3rd ascent) 4. Ascent characteristics: route length — 3270 m, height difference — 2100 m, average steepness — 75°, length of challenging sections — 520 m, 6th category of complexity. 5. Pitons hammered in: rock (including stoppers) — 220, ice — 4 6. Total climbing hours — 40 h 7. Number of bivouacs — 4 (all convenient)

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Description of the route to the summit of Sev. Bodhona (5300) via the north wall, category 5B difficulty level, completed by the LGS DSO "Spartak" team in 1979.

I. Climbing category — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodhona (5300) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B. route, 1968) — 2nd ascent. 4. Climbing characteristics: route length — 3270 m, height difference — 2100 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex sections — 520 m — VI category of difficulty. 5. Pitons used: rock (including chocks) — 292, ice — 4 6. Total climbing hours — 40 h 7. Number of nights — 4 (all comfortable) 8. Number of climbing days — 5

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Ascent to the summit of Sev. Bodhona (5300 m) via the north wall, Kudinov's Route, 5B category of complexity. Detailed description of the route and its technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technically challenging. 2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodhona (5300 m) via N. wall, 5B category of complexity («Kudinov I.B. route, 1968, 3rd ascent») 4. Ascent characteristics: route length — 3270 m height difference — 2100 m average steepness — 75° length of difficult sections — 520 m, VI category of complexity 5. Pitons driven:

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**Peak Bodhona East, ascent via the North Face by B. Bogdanov's route (6 cat. difficulty) in 1991**; description of the route and tactics employed by the MSU team.

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTIKAL-ALAUDIN" www.fany.ru

Peak Bodhona East, via the North Face (B. Bogdanov's route, 1991)

Ascent Passport

Technical Grade. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains. Peak Bodhona East, via the North Face (B. Bogdanov's route, 1991) Difficulty category — 6B, first ascent. Ascent characteristics:

  • Elevation gain — 1770 m, wall section — 1650 m
  • Length — 2866 m, wall section — 1976 m
  • Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty grade — 701 m (6th grade — 375 m)
  • Average steepness of the main route — 60°, section R0–R28 — 65°, section R34–R53 — 70°
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