Report

on the ascent to the summit of Aurondak (4573 m) via the northeast wall (approximately 5B category of difficulty; second ascent). From July 15 to August 14, 1977, a team from the Kharkov regional council of the Spartak Sports Society conducted a training camp based at the Artuch resort (Fann Mountains). The goal of the camp was to enhance the participants' sportsmanship, conduct ascents for the Spartakiad of the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Sports Society, dedicated to the 60th anniversary of the October Revolution.

Geographical and Sports Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Between the Gissar and Zeravshan ranges rises a cluster of short but high ridges known as the Fann Mountains. The area has become known relatively recently but has already established itself as interesting. Peaks such as:

• Chaptara
• Bodkhona
• Zamok

1. Class of ascent:	technical.
2. Ascent area:	Pamir-Alai (Fann Mountains)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route:	p. Aurondag 4573 m via north-eastern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category:	5B
5. Route characteristics:	height difference — 980 m
	average steepness — 73°
	section lengths:
	1c.tr. — —, Pc.tr. — —, Шc.tr. — 45, 1Уc.tr. — 340, Уc.tr. — 510

Climbing Ascent Document

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay (Fan Mountains)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Aurondag 4573 m via the northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 980 m average steepness — 73°, length of sections: 1st cat. diff. — —, 2nd cat. diff. — —, 3rd cat. diff. — 45, 4th cat. diff. — 340, 5th cat. diff. — 516, 6th cat. diff. — 139 m.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying: special — 164, wooden wedges — 5 for creating artificial holds — 11

Ascent Certificate

Technical category. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Artuch valley, Aurongdag peak, height 4573 m, route via the northeast face. Route category 5B. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 980 m;
• average slope — 74°;
• length of sections with 5B category difficulty – 520 m. Pitons hammered:
• rock — 112;
• ice — —;
• bolt — —;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay (Fann Mountains)
3. Peak: Aurondag, 4573 m, via the center of the northeast wall's "triangle"
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 1000 m
   • Average slope: 75°. Section lengths:
   • R3 — 500 m
   • R4 — 200 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class – technical.
2. Ascent area – Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route – Mt. Aurandag, 4573 m, via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category – 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 1123 m, length of 5th-6th difficulty category sections – 1185 m, average steepness – 65°.
6. Pitons driven (for belaying and creating artificial holds): rock – 143, ice – — , bolt – — .
7. Number of climbing hours – 30.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the Central North wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B, second ascent
5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain 978 m, average steepness 73°, technical sections 80°, route length 1197 m and sections by difficulty category (m) | Difficulty Category | Length (m) | | :------------------ | :--------- | | 1 | — |

Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the central part of the NW wall 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1374 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections:

• R1 — 300 m
• R2 — 150 m
• R3 — 370 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the central part of the N wall 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B category 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1374 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections:

• R1 — 300 m
• R2 — 150 m
• R4 — 370 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section № — 5.3.1., item № 27.
2. Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
3. Route name: via northwestern counterfort
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route character: rock
6. Height difference: 1420 m Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category — 255 m, VI difficulty category — 13 m Average steepness: