Zarafshan Range
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Report on the passage of a Category III route to the summit of Bodhona (5138 m) via the North-West Counterfort, Fan Mountains.
Ascent Logbook
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains, northern part.
- Peak "Bodkhona", 5138 m, 5B category via the Northwest Counterfort, G. Gulnev 67.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 1440 m (by altimeter); route length — 2940 m; length of sections with V category complexity — 250 m; VI category — 130 m; average steepness: main part of the route — 55–60 degrees (up to Gulnev's shoulder); total route — 45 degrees.
- Pitons left on the route: 0.
Pitons hammered on the route:
- Bolt pitons: 2*/1*
- Rock pitons: 8* + 10/2
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Report on the ascent of the national team to the summit of Bodhona (5138 m) via the northwestern spurs, category 5B route in the Fan Mountains in 2005.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section No. 5.3.1., item No. 27.
- Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
- Route name: via the northwestern counterfort
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Route character: rock
- Height difference: 1420 m Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category – 255 m, VI difficulty category – 13 m Average steepness:
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Report on the ascent made by a group of climbers of category 5B route to the summit of Bodkhona via the North-West buttress.
Ascent Log
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains, northern part.
- Peak "Bodkhona", 5138 m, 5B category of difficulty via the North-Western Counterfort, G. Gulnev 1967.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 1440 m (by altimeter); route length — 2940 m; length of sections with V category of difficulty — 250 m; VI category of difficulty — 130 m; average steepness of the main part of the route — 55–60°, (up to Gulnev's shoulder); entire route — 45°.
- Hooks left on the route: 0.
Hooks hammered on the route:
- Bolted: 2* / 1*
- Rock: 8* + 10 / 2
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
Technical description of a category 5B route to the summit of Bodhona via the D.3 wall in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1986.
Climbing Passport
I. Category — technical 2. Fann Mountains 3. Bodkhona peak via S.W. wall (Kolonna?) 4. 5B category of difficulty 5. Height difference: wall part: 1000 m, total: 1304 m. Length: wall part: 1018 m, total: 1498 m. Length of 5–6 category of difficulty sections: 838 m, of which 6 category of difficulty: 273 m. Average steepness of the route's wall part: 79° 6. Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 23 | - | 221 | 1 |
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bodhona via the right part of the western wall, rated as 6th category of difficulty.
RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION
PASSPORT
- Class of technical ascents
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge (northern part)
- Bodkhona, 5138 m, via the right part of the western wall (N. Vlodarchik route)
- 6B category of difficulty
- Height difference from the base of the wall to the summit - 1088 m, length - 1810 m. Height difference from the base of the wall to the ridge - 935 m, length - 1210 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 945 m. Average steepness of main sections - 71° (4150-4985), including 6th category: 87° (4200-4270), 85° (4330-4380), 85° (4395-4410), 87° (4475-4495), 62° (4505-4520), 92° (4660-4685), 87° (4785-4885).
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Description of a challenging mountaineering route, category 6 difficulty, to the summit of Bodhona (5304 m) in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a group of athletes in 1979.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class —
- Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
- Peak Bodkhona, 5304 m, western wall.
- Difficulty category — 6B.
- Route characteristics Height difference — 1000 m (wall section). Average steepness of the wall section — 80°. Length of sections:
- III difficulty category — 130 m
- IV difficulty category — 125 m
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Ascent to the summit of Bodhona (5304 m) in the Fann Mountains via the right part of the West Face, category of complexity 5B, climbed by a team of climbers from Dnipropetrovsk in 1987.
30a
Passport
Kolcherek Route
- Class: technical.
- Fann Mountains.
- Peak Bodkhona, 5304 m, via the right part of the West Face, rock climbing.
- Cat. difficulty 5B.
- Height difference 834 m, route length 1763 m, wall section 983 m.
Section lengths:
- 5th cat. diff. — 616 m
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bodhona (5304 m) in the Pамир's Fan Mountains via the right side of the wall, category 5B complexity.
Passport
- Class of ascent — high-altitude technical.
- Area of ascent — Pamir. Fann Mountains.
- Ascent route — p. Bodkhona 5304 m via the right part of the 3rd wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kolchin)
- Characteristics of the ascent:
- height difference — 1500 m;
- length of complex climbing — 1300 m;
- average steepness — 65°
- Number of pitons:
- rock — 122
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
A description of a technical ascent to the summit of Bodhona via the D.3 wall in the Fann Mountains, with a complexity category of 5B, achieved by a team of climbers in 1986.
Ascent Passport
- Category — technical
- Fann Mountains
- Peak Bodhona via the S.W. wall, "Column"
- 5B category of difficulty
- Height difference: wall section: 1000 m, total: 1304 m. Length: wall section: 1018 m, total: 1498 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 838 m, of which 6 category of difficulty: 273 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 79°
- Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :---: | :----: | :-: | | 23 | – | 221 | 1 |
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bodhona (5304 m) in the Fan Mountains of the Pamir Mountains via the right part of the wall, category 5B difficulty level.
Passport
- Category of ascent — High-altitude technical.
- Region of ascent — Pamir. Fann Mountains.
- Route of ascent — Mt. Bodkhona 5304 m via the right part of the wall, category 5B (Kolchin).
- Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1500 m; length of complex climbing — 1300 m; average steepness — 65°.
- Pitons hammered in: rock — 122,