Ascent Passport
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section № — 5.3.1., item № 27.
- Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
- Route name: via northwestern counterfort
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Route character: rock
- Height difference: 1420 m
Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category — 255 m, VI difficulty category — 13 m Average steepness: — wall part — 50° — entire route — 40°
- Pitons left on the route: 7, including 7 bolted pitons; points used on the route: 149, including 7 stationary bolted pitons, 2 of which were used as artificial support points (AIT); removable bolted pitons — 0, including 0 AIT; total artificial support points (AIT) used — 3
- Leader: Krasnov Dmitry Yuryevich, Candidate Master of Sports
Participants: Kirichenko Ruslan Sergeyevich, Candidate Master of Sports Polenov Dmitry Yuryevich, Candidate Master of Sports Nagaev Rustem Raisovich, Candidate Master of Sports Ershov Andrey Andreyevich, 1st sports category Koltunov Oleg, 1st sports category Kochegarova Irina, 1st sports category
- Base camp location: Under the western wall of Bodkhona peak (wooden overnight stay)
- Team's climbing hours: 27.5; 3 days
- Departure to the route: 06:00 July 27, 2005 Summit departure: 08:00 July 29, 2005 Return to base camp: 12:15 July 29, 2005
Technical Photo of the Summit
Photo by Kochegarova I.
Fig. 1. Technical photo.
UIAA Scheme M 1:2000
R15 3/0 friend III–IV, 50 m, 40° R14 5/0 friend IV, 30 m, 45° R13 8/0 friend V, 45 m, 70° R12 5/0 friend V, 45 m, 75° R11 3/0 friend 1, 55 m, 10° R10 3/0 friend, 4/0 pitons V, 40 m, 65° R9 4/0 friend, 5/0 stoppers, 2/0 pitons III, 15 m, 45°; V, 20 m, 90°; IV, 20 m, 60° R8 3/0 friend, 4/0 stopper IV, 50 m, 60° R7 4/0 friend, 2/0 stopper IV, 45 m, 25° R6 3/0 friend III, 45 m, 45° R5 4/0 friend III, 45 m, 45° R4 7/0 friend, 2/0 pitons V, 40 m, 70° R3 2/0 friend, 2/1 stopper V+, 4 m, 90°; A1, 4 m, 45° R2 4/0 friend 1, 40 m, 20° R1 2/0 friend, 1/0 ice axe III, 45 m, 30° R0 5/0 ice axe II, 100 m, 50°
Fig. 2.1. Scheme in UIAA symbols
UIAA Scheme M 1:2000
R26 4/0 ice axe, 5/0 stoppers III–I, 1045 m, 33° R25 3/0 friend III, 30 m, 70° R24 2/0 friend, 3/0 pitons V, 10 m, 80°; II, 40 m, 40° R23 2/0 friend, 3/0 stoppers, 3/0 pitons, 1/0 bolt IV, 30 m, 70°; V, 20 m, 90° R22 3/0 friend, 1/0 stopper, 1/0 piton, 2/2 "carrots", 1/0 bolt V, 32 m, 75°; VI, A0, 13 m, 100° R21 2/0 friend, 2/0 ice axe III, 20 m, 30° R20 4/0 friend IV, 30 m, 30° R19 5/0 friend, 2/0 stoppers IV, 50 m, 15° R18 3/0 friend, rappel right, 30 m, 80° R17 5/0 friend, 1/0 stopper III, 35 m, 40° R16 4/0 friend IV, 45 m, 65°
Fig. 2.1. Scheme in UIAA symbols (continued)
Ascent Graph
| July 26, 2005, Base camp, under the western wall of Bodkhona peak on the moraine (wooden overnight stay) | July 27, 2005, departure from overnight stay 07:00, stopped moving on the route 19:00, 12 hours of climbing, clear weather | July 28, 2005, departure from overnight stay 08:00, stopped moving on the route 16:30, 8.5 hours of climbing, clear weather | July 29, 2005, departure from overnight stay 05:00, reached the summit 08:00, 3 hours of climbing, clear weather | July 29, 2005, started descent 08:15, returned to base camp 12:15, 4 hours of climbing, clear weather |
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Section R1 Team Nagaev–Krasnov
Protocol
of the ascent to Bodkhona peak 5138 m via the Northwest counterfort (Gulnev's route) 5B category, completed from July 27 to 29 by a combined team from St. Petersburg as part of the 2005 Russian Alpine Championship.
Base camp MATC "Vertikal–Alaudin"
August 8, 2005
Present: Kapitanov O.V. — senior coach Leonov V.V. — head of rescue UTS FASiL St. Petersburg Arefyeva R.G. — head of sports department MATC
Team: Krasnov D.Yu. — ascent leader Koltunov O.S. — participant Kochegarova I.V. — participant Kirichenko R.S. — participant Ershov A.A. — participant Nagaev R.R. — participant Polenov D.Yu. — coach
Krasnov D.Yu.: "The route is logical, saturated with complex wall climbing, and corresponds to the description we received from MATC. Favorable weather conditions allowed the team to complete the route with virtually no use of AIT. The entire set of equipment recommended by consultants was used on the route. закладные элементы, френды, комалоты, крючья were used. The tactical plan for the ascent was drawn up correctly and actually coincided with its real implementation on all sections. Throughout the entire route, the team worked in harmony and reliability. The psychological climate in the team was excellent."
Kapitanov O.V. — "Who led on the wall sections? Route difficulty?"
Nagaev R.R.: "I worked first on the wall part of the route. It's a strong 5B. We managed to complete the route before the final bad weather set in, but despite this, the current state does not allow it to be called purely rock. On the wall part of the route, snow and ice are quite common, even on key sections (R25, R26); even in the second half of the day, there are icy rocks, which is why it was easier to work in crampons throughout the second day (summer on a rock route!?); the exit to the summit from the shoulder is half done on snow-ice relief, and the descent from the shoulder is almost entirely (except for the first two rappels) on snow and ice. Considering the above, I think it would be more accurate to consider the route's character as combined. The team worked clearly. The leader coped with his duties. The route is very interesting from the point of view of practicing group interaction on various types of terrain and allows for good training before ascents of 6A category via Bodkhona's western wall."
Leonov V.V. — "What are the physical and technical characteristics of the route?"
Kirichenko R.S.: "For a rock route, there's a lot of ice and snow, which greatly complicates the passage of key sections. It's good that the possibility of such a turn of events was taken into account when preparing for the ascent."
Kochegarova I.V.: "The physical load is high; from this perspective, the ascent was difficult. Still, it's over 5000 meters. The team did not experience technical problems. This is the result of intense training and preparation during the off-season. The team had a very favorable atmosphere."
Polenov D.Yu.: "I believe the team worked clearly and harmoniously on the route."
Kapitanov O.V. — releasing "The ascent was completed in accordance with the Rules. The ascent and leadership are confirmed."
Arefyeva R.G.: "Congratulations to the team on a successful ascent. In accordance with the Regulations on the 2005 Russian Championship, the team must submit a report to the judging panel."
Kapitanov O.V. — senior coach Polenov D.Yu. — coach Leonov V.V. Arefyeva R.G. Krasnov D.Yu. — leader
Supplement to the Report
on the ascent to Bodkhona peak via a 5B category route, completed from August 15, 2005, to August 19, 2005.
In 2005, the weather in the Fann Mountains was very unstable. A large amount of precipitation, the end of the season, and several other factors strongly influenced the state of the routes in the area. A group of climbers from the Tomsk Alpine Federation Training Camps completed an ascent to Bodkhona peak via a 5B category route, G. Gulnev 67. There was a lot of snow and flow ice on the route. They moved mostly in crampons. The leader worked with an ice tool. Completing the route took more time than it would have in good weather and route conditions.
We request that for all groups that were in this area and completed this route, it be classified not as rock, as indicated in the classifier, but as combined, which most accurately reflects the actual state of the route.
Photographs are attached.
