Ascent to the peak Adantai from the NE via the Adantai Pass, 45 km/tr.

I. From a night's stay at 6:00, along the moraine under the Adantapa Pass to the pass (base camp on Dvshakho Lake). 2. 80 m up to the first ascent, which is located on the left on snow (40 m) to an internal corner (80°) with a crevasse (height 5–6 m). 3. Climb up the internal corner (difficult climbing), insurance from the snow through an ice axe (2–3 sections). 4. Upwards — to the right on easy rocks (grade 3–4) to the ridge under

• the second ascent, which is a steep section of the ridge with two overhangs, one under the other in the upper part (grade 4–5).

9. I. 5 ropes left — up, further up (40–50°) — 2 ice and 2 rock pitches are solid (grade 7–8). The northern trough expands and turns into a steep slope, resting against the junction with the eastern ridge near the tower's summit. IО. Up monolithic slabs (50°), few holds (only thin pitons go in) (4 ropes — 9 pitons, grade 8–9). II. One rope of snow and rock — medium difficulty rock — left and up, bypassing the pre-summit tower (grade 9–IО) via 3 ropes of Alpine rock, exit onto the ridge.
10. One rope along the ridge (3 pitons, grade I0 — II). Then 3 ropes on disintegrated rocks to the eastern summit.
11. Descent from the E summit to the pass (last 15 m on a rope) and ascent to the main summit along the wide main ridge (grade: II — 12)
12. Descent initially via the ascent route to the ridge fork. Further down along the eastern ridge to the Алаудин valley — right and down. Slabs and scree on them. Last 2 ropes before reaching the shoulder of the eastern ridge — descent on a rope with retrieval.
13. From the shoulder to the very bottom, scree goes with outcrops of "ram's teeth" — I valley of Алаудин valley (6 pitons on descent). запасной вариант спуска — на переходе между Адан-кни and п. Прошехуточный (3 km/h). First ascenders recommend making it the main descent route. They estimate the ascent at 2000 m, 4 hours.

43 (50) N. West b. Ap­sher­on, t. Kop­man, N. Ko­zer­og. Tser­kovnoye, L. Ko­pat­ke­to (cm)

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Region: Fan Mountains 3. Adamtash, 4700 m, via N wall, E edge, rock 4. Estimated difficulty category: 5–6 5. Route characteristics: (Measured by Shataev) Height difference /wall section/: 325 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 358 m Average steepness: 75°

PASSPORT

I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge 3. p. Adam-Tash, 4700 m, via N face, E edge 4. 5B cat. dif., third ascent 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 630 m, length 980 m, sections of 5-6 cat. dif. 380 m average steepness of the main part of the route 75° 6. Pitons used: rock 10/3

PASSPORT

I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge 3. Pik Adamtash, 4700 m, via N. slope of E. ridge 4. Category 5B, third ascent 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 630 m length 980 m length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty 380 m average steepness of the main part of the route 75 °

To the Classification Commission under the USSR Alpine Federation and the USSR Central Sports Club, Moscow.

Description

Traverse of the Kulikalon Wall (v. Adamtash – p. Promezhutochny – East Mirali – Main Mirali – Main Maria – Uzlovaya Maria – West Maria – v. Bezymyannaya – p. 4300 – v. Aurondag – v. Zierat) with ascent to v. Adamtash via the Eastern Edge. Approximately 50 km of technical terrain. Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alai, 1968.

1. Data on Traverse Participants

The traverse of the Kulikalon Wall was completed by the LOS SDSO "Burevestnik" team consisting of: Traverse leader: Vadim Aleksandrovich Korotkov, born 1940, CMS, engaged in mountaineering since 1959. Traverse participants:

XVIII EAAC (CIS) Alpinism Championship

Report on the Route Completion

Traverse of the Kulikalon Wall from v. Adamtash to v. Zierat, along the Eastern ridge, 5B category, V. Korotkov's route, 1968, completed by the team of the Tomsk Alpinism Federation's training camps Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 2009

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains, 5.3.1, Alaudin and Kulikalon gorges.
2. v. Adamtash – v. Zierat, along the Eastern ridge, traverse.
3. 5B category, V. Korotkov, 1968.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference along the route sections:

V. Alaudin, 2A, via South-West couloir

Alaudin Pass (3730 m) Descent from the summit via 2A cat. diff.

Peak ALAUDIN, via the West Ridge (P.Karpov's route, category 3B)

From the Alaudin pass, follow the trail to the saddle between the peaks Borzov za Mir and Alaudin. From the saddle, traverse about 50 m of scree to a platform, which marks the start of the route. Then, proceed along the ridge for about 2 rope lengths of easy climbing with protection on protrusions, leading to the crux — 40 m of difficult climbing, initially on an inclined shelf and then on a vertical slot with an overhanging lower section. Above the crux, there's a good platform with a control cairn. Continue mainly on the left side of the ridge. Descent is via route 2A category. The entrance to the descent couloir is located before reaching a large gendarme and is marked by a cairn under a small pointed gendarme. In the middle section of the descent, there's a 40 m rappel with a sling on two piton anchors.

PEAK ALAUDIN VIA THE WEST RIDGE, CATEGORY

© 2005–2006 MATC «Vertikal-Alaudin» Descent from the summit via route 2A category.