I. Climbing category — technically complex. 2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Peak — ALAUDIN, from Dhanat pass, 4142 m, via the northern ridge. 4. Estimated complexity category — 3A. 5: Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 500 m. b) average steepness — 45°. c) length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 10 m. 6. Number of anchors installed: - rock anchors — 16 pieces - ice anchors — none

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTIKAL-ALAUDIN" www.fanyvertical.ru

V. Alaudin, 3B, via North-West wall (route by O. Solovey, 79)

Approach: a) through Alaudin pass, then through the saddle between v. Alaudin and Borcov za Mir to the rocky saddle of the North ridge (Djanat pass). b) from the lakes along the scree slopes of the Eastern wall directly to the saddle of the North ridge. R0–R1: From the saddle slightly down and then to the inclined shelf. Along the shelf (medium difficulty rocks) exit to a large scree shelf. R1–R2: Along the shelf to the right 10 m under a small wall. R2–R3: Ascend the wall, protection at the protrusion. R3–R5: Along the scree shelves 2 ropes of 40 m - traverse to the right. Piton protection is difficult - destroyed rock.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak Alaudin (4237 m) via the southern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3–6
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 800 m; average steepness – 60°; section lengths: I – 110 m; II – 285 m; III – 240 m; IV – 55 m; V – 17 m; VI – 0 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating intermediate anchors rock – 22, ice – 0, bolt – 0
7. Number of climbing hours: 7 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: —

REPORT on the ascent to the summit "ALAUDIN" via the southern counterfort (4A cat. diff.)

2. Group Composition

1. Sandalov I.S. (leader) 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Kr-sk
2. Loginov B.M. 1949, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
3. Trofimov A.A. 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
4. Burlakov Yu.P. 1947, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk

3. Equipment

1. Main ropes 2 × 40 m, 1 × 60 m
2. Repschnur 1 × 10 m

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Alaudin via the southern counterfort ("Parasail") (I. Sandalov's route, 72) category 4A on July 25, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region, range — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — mt. ALAUDIN, 4237 m, via the left wall. First ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 650 m, length of sections with 5th-6th difficulty category — 200 m, average steepness — 58°
6. Pitons driven:

MA­RUPT RPA­DA­EN­KHU­KH KO­MA­RA­OKH MA­RUPT 4A KA TO KON­KHAN KO­MA­RA­O­PEN

Peak Amshut (4850 m) via the West Face, Cat. 4B

The group set out at 9:00 from the assault camp (Amput Pass, approx. 4000 m) for the first ascent of Amshut Peak via the west face. Rounding the steeply dropping walls of Amshut via scree and snow, we reach a saddle from which the route begins. The saddle is lower than the pass level. Here, we set up the 1st control cairn. Section #1. From Cairn #1, we face "ram's foreheads" with a steepness of 45–50°. The 70-meter ascent is initially done with alternate belays, then one rope is fixed as a handrail, and it ends at a ledge before the wall. Two pitons are hammered in. Section #2. From the ledge, we climb 8 meters straight up the wall with a steepness of 80–85°. Then, we move left under the overhanging outer corner into a narrow, long cleft. When transitioning from one wall to another, we're thrown

on the left side, straight up to the rope to the end of the couloir, which ends with a chimney filled with ice. Climbing is extremely cautious, as there are many loose rocks. Above the couloir is a sheer wall, so we traverse to the right through the couloir's throat and exit to its right side. It is necessary to cross the couloir quickly due to the hanging crevice, from which pieces of ice break off and shoot through this couloir. In this section, the belay is piton (4 pitons), movement is along the fixed ropes. Section 56 From the couloir, we move to the rocks, which are steep but heavily dissected. Straight up, we climb one rope to a small ledge, where we can gather everyone. The time is already late, and we still haven't found a suitable platform for the tent. After

1. The ascent class is technical.
2. The ascent area is the Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Range.
3. The peak, its height, and the ascent route: peak Amshut, 4850 m, via the center of the north wall, first ascent.
4. The proposed category of difficulty is 5B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 1050 m, route length — 1200 m, length of sections 5–6 — 1150 m, including sections 6 — 280 m, average steepness of the route — 70°.
6. Number of pitons driven: rock pitons — 205, including for ITO — 11, chocks — 115, including for ITO — 5, bolt pitons — 2.
7. Number of walking hours to the summit — 35 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: