Yazgulem Range
Route Description: СЗ гребню
SSummitMateThe ascent to the summit of Peak Dik Cold Wall (5959 m) via the northwest wall in the Pamir Mountains, category of difficulty 3B, made by a group in 1980.
Passport
Ascent Details
- Ascent type: High-altitude technical climb
- Ascent region: Central Pamir, Maly Yazgulem ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
- Peak: Dik Cold Wall, 5959 m, via the northwest route
- Anticipated difficulty category: 3B
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1520 m length of 3rd category terrain — 420 m, average steepness — 28°
- Pitons used: for protection: rock — 15, camming devices — 11, ice screws — 3, bolted pitons — none. for creating artificial holds — none.
Route Description: правой части В стены
SSummitMateReport on the ascent made by a group of climbers in 1980, following a grade 6 difficulty route up the eastern wall of Pik Kholodnaya Stena (5959 m) in the Pamir Mountains.
Ascent Log
- Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
- Ascent area — Yazgulem Range, Central Pamir.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Kholodnaya Stena, 5959 m. Eastern wall (right part).
- Expected difficulty category — 6
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty level — 1299 m, average steepness — 80°
- Number of driven pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial footholds: rock — 388/17
Route Description: бастионам левой части В стены
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of the route category 5B on the Eastern wall of the "Cold wall" peak (5979 m) in the Pamir Mountains, made by the team led by Nikolai Opoitsev in 1985.
Passport
I. Class of first ascents 2. Pamir, Havraz-Dara valley 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena" via the bastions of the left part of the East wall 4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1619 meters. Average slope up to the ridge — 68°. Average slope up to the summit — 65°. Average slope of sections R23–R24 — 85°. R42–R48 — 85°. 6. Piton placement
| rock | bolt | chock | ice |
|---|
Route Description: I баст. С стены
SSummitMateDescription of a combined route of 5B category of complexity to the summit, including technical characteristics and details of the route passage by a group of mountaineers in 1983.
- Climbing category: high-altitude technical.
- Climbing area: South-Eastern Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge, Khovraz-Dara valley.
- Summit: Pik Kholodnaya Stena (5959) via the right bastion of the north face.
- Assumed category: 5B (first ascent).
- Route characteristics:
- combined route
- total elevation gain: 1500 m
- wall section elevation gain: 1100 m
- ridge elevation gain: 400 m
- total route length: 3770 m
Route Description: II баст. правой части С стены
SSummitMateAscent to the peak "Kholodnaya стена" by the north wall, 6 cat., first ascent made in 1985 by a team led by Babito Kryachyov.
59а
1. Ascent Passport
- High-altitude technical climb
- Pamir, eastern spurs of Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
- Peak Kholodnaya Stena via the central bastion of the north face
- Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
- Wall section height difference: 1260 m, length: 1450 m. Total height difference: 1500 m, total length: 2000 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity: 830 m. Average steepness of main sections: 74° (5000–5650 m), including 280 m of 6th category complexity.
- Pitons used:
Route Description: В стене
SSummitMateDescription of the passage of a 6th category difficulty route on the Eastern wall of the Cold Wall peak in the Pamir Mountains by a team led by Igor Bozhko in August 1983.
Passport
- Altitude-technical category
- Eastern Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range
- Peak Kholodnaya Stena via the East face (“silver route” by Salonnikov, at the USSR Championship 1980).
- 6B category of difficulty, second ascent
- Height difference — 1710 m; length — 2080 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 760 m; average steepness of the main sections 76° (5000–5700 m), including 6 category of difficulty 88° (5300–5700 m).
- Pitons hammered:
Category Total Per day Rock 309 17
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateAscent description of an alpinist team to the summit Kholodnaya Stena (5979 m) via the center of the North face in the Pamir mountains, 6B difficulty category.
ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir, eastern spurs of the Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, route: Kholodnaya стена, 5979 m, via the center of the North face 4. Difficulty category: 6B 5. Route characteristics:
- Height difference: 1500 m
- Length of sections:
- 6th category difficulty: 760 m
- 5th category difficulty: 860 m
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateCaptain Valery Boyko's team making the first ascent of a new route, category 6 difficulty, up the north face of Pik Kholodnaya Stena in the Pamir Mountains in 1985.
- Class: high-altitude technical.
- Pamir, Khavraz-Dara valley.
- Peak Kholodnaya стена (Cold Wall) via the center of the N wall.
- Verba's Route, 6B category of difficulty, 1983.
- Height difference: 1500 m. Distance: 1830 m. Distance of sections:
- 1st category of difficulty — 1175 m
- 6th category of difficulty — 395 m
- Pitons hammered in:
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateDescription of the passage of a category II route via the North face of the peak Holodnaya стена (5970 m) in the Pamir Mountains in 1985.
PASSPORT
- High-altitude technical class
- Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
- Peak Kholodnaya стена via the center of the North wall 5970 m (Verba route)
- 6th category of difficulty, second ascent, 4th overall
- Elevation gain: 1500 m, length — 1800 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 75° (4470 – 5850), including 6th category difficulty — 580 m
- Pitons hammered: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 169+5x | — | 86 | 65 |
Route Description: левой части В стены
SSummitMateAscent to Peak Golodnaya Stena via the center of the East Face, category of difficulty - high-altitude technical route, elevation gain 1580 m, 7 nights out, 68 walking hours.
I. Ascent category — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Ascent route — p. Kholodnaya Stena 5959 m via the center of the East wall (second ascent, Kovtun's route) 4. Route characteristics:
- height difference — 1580 m;
- route length — 2005 m;
- average steepness — 74°;
- length of complex sections — 1375 m;
- average steepness of the "mirror" — 87° with a length of 740 m.
- Pitons driven: