Yazgulem Range
Route Description: левой части В стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route through the center of the eastern wall of "Kholodnaya стена" peak (5959 m) in the Pamir mountains, category 6A, with a detailed analysis of tactics and technical features.
Passport
I. High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category
- Eastern Pamir. Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavrez-dara gorge.
- Kholodnaya Stena peak, via the center of the East wall.
- 6th category of difficulty, third ascent of the route, which took 1st place at the 1980 USSR Climbing Championship.
- Elevation gain: 1660 m, route length — 2150 m (including 70 m of descent).
- Section lengths: 6th category — 447 m, 5th category — 904 m. Average steepness of the route: 1st bastion — 70° 2nd bastion — 75°
Route Description: левой части В стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the peak "Kholodnaya Stena" (5979 m) via the Eastern wall, category 6B difficulty, in the Yazgulem ridge.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Altitude-technical class. 2. Yazgulemsky ridge, Khavraz-Dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, length - 1925 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 1370 m. 6B category of difficulty - 640 m, 5B category of difficulty - 730 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, section R23-R48 (5180-5780). 6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice screws |
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the peak "Kholodnaya Stena" (5979 m) by the Eastern wall, 6B cat. of difficulty, Yazgulemskiy ridge.
Ascent Passport
I. Technical Difficulty Category. 2. Yazgulsky Ridge, Havraz-dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, route length — 1925 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1370 m. 6 category of difficulty — 640 m, 5 category of difficulty — 750 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, sections 23–48 (5160–5780). 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMatePeak Kholodnaya Stena, route description, elevation 5975 meters.
п. Kholodnaya stena
5975
Description of the ascent route with a detailed diagram and technical details on a scale of 1:2000.
ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SYMBOLS. SCALE 1:2000
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of the climbing route with day-by-day statistics and technical data
| 28-29 | 5 | 2 | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 27-28 | 2 | |||
| 26-27 | 4 | 3 | ||
| 25-26 | 3 | |||
| 24-25 | 4 | |||
| 956 | 28°C | 18 ans | ||
| 23-24 | 5 | 2 | ||
| 22-23 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 21-22 | 5 | 8 |
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of an alpinist route with detailed statistics on the passage of various sections and categories of complexity.
| 45-46 | 3 | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 44-45 | 7/1 | 5 | ||
| (40+44)/446 | 4 / 12 | 13 / 4 | 1 | |
| 43-44 | 8 | 1 | ||
| 42-43 | 3 / 3 | 2 / 2 | 1 | |
| 41-42 | 4 | 1 | ||
| 40-41 | 7 | 2 | ||
| 39-40 | 10 / 8 | 2 / 2 | ||
| 38-39 | 8 | 5 |
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateAscent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge from South Col, a classic high-altitude mountaineering route.
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Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of a challenging climbing route along a crumbling rock wall involving artificial aids and alternating types of terrain.
Route description by sections
Section R0–R1, R2–R4, R4–R5, R6–R9, R9–R28, R28–R81, R81–R86, R86–R88, R88–R89, R89–R40, R40–R41, R41–R42, R42–R48, R43–R44 Very destroyed rock wall. Rock wall, in the middle part - a cornice, is passed with the use of artificial support points (И.Т.О.). Alternation of:
- rock walls
- inner corners
- shelves Passed by free climbing (many loose stones).
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of a challenging section of a rock-ice route using free climbing and ice-snow equipment.
— I.O. —
Section: a monolithic rock wall, complicated by an eave in its middle part.
- Free climbing 45–46
- Traverse left under the eave
- Snow possible in the cracks 46–47
- Eave. Traverse from left to right using artificial aids 47–49
- Rock walls with a large number of holds. Free climbing 49–50 Snow and ice slope leading to the ridge 50–51. Rock ascent 51–52 Ice "mushroom" — an overhanging section. Protection with ice screws 52–58 Rock ascent. Many loose rocks 58–54. Snow and ice cornice. Broken through by