Ascent to Peak Shipka (6247 m) via the Southwest Ridge Central Council of DSO "Zenit" 1970 Brief Geographical and Geological Characteristics of the Peak Shipka Area Peak Shipka (6247 m) is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR. Along with the peaks:

• Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m),
• Peak October Revolution (6974 m),
• Peak Paris Commune (6002 m), Peak Shipka encloses the Yazgulem-Dara valley, at the head of which lies the eponymous glacier, stretching over 15 km. On geographical maps, the name of the glacier and valley is incorrectly printed with "E" instead of "Ё", though this is a local name and is pronounced as YAZGULЁM-DARA.

1. Climbing category — altitude-technical
2. Climbing region — Yazgulemsky ridge
3. Peak Shipka, 6254 m, central buttress of NW wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route description Height difference — 2154 m, average steepness — 45°, average steepness of wall section — 60°, length of sections: R0 — 0; R1 — 500 m; R2 — 1550 m; R3 — 710 m; R4 — 305 m; R5 — 150 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, rock — 96, ice — 0, bolt — 0 for creating belay anchors — 8
7. Total hours of climbing — 42

10. TEAM COACH – HONORED COACH OF THE USSR, MASTER OF SPORTS SIVTSOV Boris Grigorievich 11. DATE OF DEPARTURE ON THE ROUTE AND RETURN TO THE CAMP: 16.08.1973 – 23.08.1973.

Map-Scheme of the Ascent Area

§1. Brief Geographical Description

Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) is located in the Central Pamir in the eastern end of the Yazgulemsky ridge. Together with its neighbors along the ridge:

4.12.75

ON ASCENT TO PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII VIA SOUTH RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA GLACIER THROUGH PIK 6254 m. A COLLECTIVE OF ALPINISM INSTRUCTORS FROM THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. THE ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE 50th ANNIVERSARY OF THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. 1968 Photo 2. Pioneering ridge of Pik Revolyutsii. (Taken from the overnight stop on descent from Pik 6254 m.) The objectives of our team's ascents in the 1968 season were Pik 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) and Pik Revolyutsii (6974 m). These peaks had been visited by Soviet climbers several times before, but all ascents were made either from the Fedchenko Glacier or the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier. Our team's task was complicated by the fact that the chosen routes to these peaks started from the south, a region that Soviet climbers rarely explored. Participants of the Armed Forces (AF) gathering began preparing for the expedition in the autumn of 1967.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

Contents

• Title Page

VT8

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION (врedo тр9) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1973

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Lyap-Nazar (5984 m) via the northeast wall Alpclub "Donbass" Captain and coachM.S.SIVTSOV B.G. DONETSK–1973

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LYAP-NAZAR SUMMIT (5984 m)

The Lyap-Nazar summit (5984 m) translates from the Rushani dialect as "Visible Tooth" (Lyap-tooth, Nazar-view). It is located at the eastern end of one of the Yazgulem Ridge spurs and stands out among neighboring peaks with its impressive "height". The southern walls of Lyap-Nazar drop steeply towards the Bartang River above the Roshorv village. An 8-hour ascent from the village up the Yazgulem-dara River leads to the confluence of the Lyap-Nazar Glacier stream and Yazgulem-dara. The Northeast wall of Lyap-Nazar rises 2400 m above the glacier. For the past 4 years, the wall has attracted climbers with its inaccessibility and beauty, but expeditions focused on higher mountains in the area, such as Peak Revolyutsii and the 26 Baku Commissars, left this wall untouched, and until 1973, there were no attempts to ascend it.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, range Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 6277 (Peak Parrot), NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 760 m average steepness — 30°
6. Protection anchors driven: ice screws — 2
7. Number of climbing hours — 18
8. Number of nights on the route and their characteristics —

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category: Snow and Ice
2. Ascent area: Yazgulem Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: P. 6047 m, via the northwestern slope
4. Proposed category: 3A, protocol 547, part 10, dated February 5, 1985
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths — R0–R1 300 m, R1–R2 40 m, R2–R3 200 m, R3–R4 80 m, R4–R5 1000 m, R5–R6 20 m, R6–R7 100 m
6. Number of pitons: ice screws 30
7. Climbing time: 14 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2
9. Names of the team leader and participants, their climbing qualifications:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, from the saddle of the western ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 647 m, average steepness 43°, section lengths — I 460 m, II 225 m, III 334 m, IV 38 m, V 68 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — rock II, ice —, bolted —; for creating ITO — rock 21.
7. Number of climbing hours: 13 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: none.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

Climbing Passport

I Climbing class: high-altitude technical II Climbing area: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge III Peak, its height and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, via the south-eastern ice slope with exit to the south-western ridge. IV Proposed difficulty category: 4B V Route characteristics: a) height difference 2047 b) average steepness: 43° c) section lengths: I⁺) 1150 m, II⁺) 50 m, III 650 m, IV 320 m, V 350 m