Ascent Record. I. Technical Category. 2. Central Pamir. 3. Peak Pasor (unnamed peak, 6047 m) via the north face. 4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately). 5. Route characteristics: The face on Peak Pasor. Length — 1405 m, including sections of category 5B — 330 m, 5A — 315 m, category 4 — 475 m, category 3 — 180 m, category 2 — 100 m. Average steepness — 65°, steepness of category 5 sections — 70°. Total route length — 1760 m. Total elevation gain — 1150 m. 6. Pitons used: * for belaying: * rock: 60 * ice: 7

Ascent Passport

1. High-altitude technical category.
2. Yazgulem Range, Khavraz-Dara valley.
3. Peak 5870 m via the north-eastern wall of the western spur.
4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately).
5. Route characteristics Wall: length 1385 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 1155 m (6 category – 80 m, 5 category – 1075 m, 4 category – 230 m). Average steepness – 73° (steepness of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 80°). Total route length 2225 m (6 category – 80 m, 5 category – 1075 m, 4 category – 500 m, 3 category – 470 m, 2 category – 100 m).
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors (ITO) rock pitons – 104, including 10 for ITO ice pitons – 12, including 3 for ITO

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazgulemsky ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Yazgulem. Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12.
2. Summit name: Peak Rokzou. Route name: from Rokzou Glacier via the serac zone of the southwestern slope.
3. Proposed – category 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type: snow and ice.
5. Elevation gain: 1320 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4400 m. Length of sections:

To the summit from the last overnight stay

1. Geographical Information

Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov is located in the central Pamir in the eastern part of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the Peak Revolyutsii massif. The average height of the ridge in this area is around 5900 m. The height of the summit is 6420 m (barometrically). The Peak Revolyutsii massif, together with Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov and Peak Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov, crowns a grandiose cirque - the 5900 m plateau, the beginning of the Grumm-Grzhimaylo Glacier. To the south of the summit lies the Khabarvid-Khaya valley, to the east is Peak Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov, and to the west rises the massive Peak Revolyutsii.

2. Possible Ascent Routes

All possible routes to the summit of Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov start from the 5900 m plateau of the Grumm-Grzhimaylo Glacier. There are three such paths:

1. Ascending from the south via a snow-ice slope to the 6300 m col, from where you can reach the summit via rocks.
2. Ascending to the same col from the north via a snowy slope with bergschrunds.
3. Ascending to the summit via the north-eastern ridge. The route from the Khabarvid-Khaya glacier is the most challenging and dangerous and is hardly passable.

4. Brief Characteristics of the Ascent

4.1. Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Vysokaya Stena ridge
3. Peak: Tartu University – 350 years height 6350 m ascent route: from Lake Tanymas II via the northwest ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 850 m

Description

First Ascent of Peak 6113.5 m

Geographical Information

Peak 6113.5 m (photo 1) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Vysokaya Stena range. Four glaciers originate from its slopes:

• The northern slopes give rise to the Tanymas 3 glacier;
• The western slopes feed the second (unnamed) glacier, which is a right tributary of the Fedchenko Glacier;
• On the southwest, a third (unnamed) glacier flows, which is the last right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier;
• To the south flows the fourth glacier, also a right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier.

Approaches

The group of first ascensionists approached Peak 6113.5 m on July 27, 1962, from the base camp (altitude 3900 m) located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Tanymas-3 glacier.
3. Peak 6113 m, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route 1450 m. Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty - 620 m, 6B category of difficulty - 575 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (4900–6060), including 6B category of difficulty 80° (5420–5970).
6. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

53a

USSR Alpine Championship

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

Report

on the first ascent of Peak 6113 m via the right part of the north face by the Ukrainian "Burevestnik" Sports Club team Team leader: I.V. Bozhko Coach: A.M. Bychek 1985, Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Club 252000, Kiev, Vorovsky St., 30-g, tel. 26-37-16

Passport

1. High-altitude technical class 2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Tanimass-3 lake area 3. Peak "6113" via the right part of the northern wall 4. Proposed — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain — 1200 m, wall section length — 1240 m, length of sections with Category 5B difficulty — 310 m, average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 64° (5050–6050 m) 6. Pitons driven:

REPORT on the first ascent of v. Kholodnaya Stena via the northwestern ridge, category 3B Group composition:

• Leader:
• Participants: Ponomarchuk V.S., CMS; Matveenko V.M., MS; Ivanov N.R., CMS; Krasnukhin L.I., CMS; Nastobursky A.N., CMS; Kapustina T.D., 1st sports category. 1980

Brief geographical overview