Yazgulem Range
Route Description: центру 3 стены
SSummitMateReport on MAI team's ascent to Chiringad peak (5864 m) via the center of the West face, category 6B difficulty level, in Pamir, 2008.
Russian Championship (Technical Climbing Category)
Climbing Report of the MAI Team
on peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall, 6B category, August 5-8, 2008
Moscow, 2008
Team Captain: M. Volkov alpclu@yandex.ru ph. +7-985-233-83-64
Team Coach: V. Lavrinenko lavrinenco2004@mail.ru ph. +7-916-439-03-12
Report preparation: M. Pankov maxtreme@bk.ru ph. +7-910-492-76-05
Climbing Details
№ 4.12.61, peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall (N. Petrov, 1989), 6B
Route Description: центру 3 стены
SSummitMate"First ascent of the northern slope of the peak Chiringyad (5864 m) in the Pamir Mountains via the Western wall (6.5 category of difficulty) in 1989."
PASSPORT
I. Altitude-technical class 2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak 5864 (Chiringyad) via the West face 4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1864 m Distance — 2695 m Sections of 5–6 category difficulty — 110 m Average steepness of the main route section (4300–5864) — 67°
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of the team's ascent to the summit of Kholodnaya Stena (5979 m) in the Pamir Mountains via the Eastern Wall, rated as 6B complexity category.
ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical. 2. Area — Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge. 3. Cold Wall peak, 5979 m, via the center of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference — 1329 m, length — 1778 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1083 m, average steepness of the main part of the wall — 84° (5170–5710 m), average steepness of the wall up to the ridge — 70°. 6. Pitons used:
| rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 405 | 4 | 323 | 38 |
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMate**Peak Kholodnaya Stena**, route description, ascent details, and key features.
п. Holodnaya
stena
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of a challenging section of a rock-ice route using free climbing and ice-snow equipment.
— I.O. —
Section: a monolithic rock wall, complicated by an eave in its middle part.
- Free climbing 45–46
- Traverse left under the eave
- Snow possible in the cracks 46–47
- Eave. Traverse from left to right using artificial aids 47–49
- Rock walls with a large number of holds. Free climbing 49–50 Snow and ice slope leading to the ridge 50–51. Rock ascent 51–52 Ice "mushroom" — an overhanging section. Protection with ice screws 52–58 Rock ascent. Many loose rocks 58–54. Snow and ice cornice. Broken through by
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of a challenging climbing route along a crumbling rock wall involving artificial aids and alternating types of terrain.
Route description by sections
Section R0–R1, R2–R4, R4–R5, R6–R9, R9–R28, R28–R81, R81–R86, R86–R88, R88–R89, R89–R40, R40–R41, R41–R42, R42–R48, R43–R44 Very destroyed rock wall. Rock wall, in the middle part - a cornice, is passed with the use of artificial support points (И.Т.О.). Alternation of:
- rock walls
- inner corners
- shelves Passed by free climbing (many loose stones).
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateAscent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge from South Col, a classic high-altitude mountaineering route.
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88 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of an alpinist route with detailed statistics on the passage of various sections and categories of complexity.
| 45-46 | 3 | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 44-45 | 7/1 | 5 | ||
| (40+44)/446 | 4 / 12 | 13 / 4 | 1 | |
| 43-44 | 8 | 1 | ||
| 42-43 | 3 / 3 | 2 / 2 | 1 | |
| 41-42 | 4 | 1 | ||
| 40-41 | 7 | 2 | ||
| 39-40 | 10 / 8 | 2 / 2 | ||
| 38-39 | 8 | 5 |
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of the climbing route with day-by-day statistics and technical data
| 28-29 | 5 | 2 | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 27-28 | 2 | |||
| 26-27 | 4 | 3 | ||
| 25-26 | 3 | |||
| 24-25 | 4 | |||
| 956 | 28°C | 18 ans | ||
| 23-24 | 5 | 2 | ||
| 22-23 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 21-22 | 5 | 8 |
Description of the ascent route with a detailed diagram and technical details on a scale of 1:2000.
ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SYMBOLS. SCALE 1:2000