Sports Club of the Army of the Leningrad Military District

Peak "Armeitsev" (5398 m) via the Southwest Ridge (first ascent)

The route was completed by the team of the Armed Forces of the Leningrad Military District on August 7-8, 1977. 1978 I. General view of the peak 5398 m, Armeitsev Map of the Yazgulem-dara area

Approach to the summit

The peak Armeitsev (5398 m) is located in a lateral spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, which has a northeast-southwest orientation over a short distance. The spur, where the peak is situated, has an eastern and southeastern orientation. This spur starts from the peak 5700 m, borders the upper arm of the Yazgulem-dara glacier from the south. At the slopes of this spur, the Yazgulem-dara glacier makes a sharp turn to the south and flows along the eastern slopes of peak Armeitsev. On the other side of peak Armeitsev lies a large cirque, bordered from the west by the crest of the Yazgulem Ridge, and from the east by a spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, branching off near the Lower Khurdzhin pass.

MOSCOW REGIONAL COUNCIL Sports Society "Zenit" Protocol No. 322 dated November 24, 1970 4A — first ascent Peak 5398 "Army Men". via the Southwest wall (Central Pamir) 1970 Peak 5398 (view from camp "3700")

Peak BOLGARIA (5666 m) via peak 5600 along the Western Ridge (Central Pamir) Area Map

Geographical Location

The gathering place for the climbers of MOS DSO "Zenit" in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolyutsii in the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The summit — Peak Bolgariya — was the target of the ascent. It belongs to the mountain chain stretching south from the highest peak in the area — Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m). On the opposite, western, side of the valley, the peaks of the Yazgulemsky Ridge stretch from north to south, most of which exceed 5000 m in height. The area is dominated by six-thousander peaks located in the northern part of the valley:

I. Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Vychuk-Dara valley.
3. Peak — "5200" peak via the right part of the NW wall, first ascent.
4. Difficulty category — proposed 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1360 m;
   • height difference — 1200 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 666 m; including 6th category — 82 m;

PN 521 № 1 of 23.11.82 5B/" Climbing Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Vydvyadzh valley
3. Peak "5200", via the North-West wall through the "finger" and along the North ridge.
4. Assumed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1300 m, length of sections with V–VI category of difficulty — 782 m.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. Peak 5200 m via the center of the northwest wall
4. Estimated difficulty — 5B cat. (first ascent)
5. Ascent description (route): Height difference — 1200 m Length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 448 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 165 m Average steepness 64°
6. Pitons used: for belaying: rock — 144 (including protection gear), bolt — 6, ice — 4; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 4

REPORT

Red Banner Turkestan Military District ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF "SHIPKA" PEAK 6254 m VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA, CATEGORY 5B The route was claimed for the primacy of the Armed Forces of the USSR in the high-altitude category. Tashkent – 1968 Shipka Peak (6254 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara River, in the southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Range, in the ridge extending from Peak October Revolution (6974 m). The most accessible approaches to the peak are from the Yazgulem-Dara Glacier. Only one route of category 4B difficulty (approximately) had been previously laid to the peak, via the southern ridge from the col between Shipka Peak and peak 5682 m. The group believed that the most interesting and challenging route could be laid via the western ridge. Preliminary reconnaissance of the route revealed that the route to Shipka Peak is a sharply rising ridge with two horizontal sections. There are two towers on the ridge:

• the first is in the middle section, over 300 m high;
• the second, the summit tower, is over 600–700 m high.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 31°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs at one location on a snowy ridge at an altitude of about 5700 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 3°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.

— 1970 — Map of the area Note: Corresponds to the 1st prodrizhno-razografia. It is necessary to indicate the overnight stays on the route and their date.