Report on the Ascent of Karakolsky Peak

via the NE edge by a team of climbers from the Novosibirsk Regional Council of the Trud Sports Society for the primacy of the Central Sports Council of the Trud Sports Society in 1966.

Approved:

Chairman of the Novosibirsk Regional Council of the Trud Sports Society (V. Parygin)

Route Description

The description of the route is given in sections marked with numbers, and within the sections - by route points. The time taken to pass the sections is indicated for the first climber. August 7, 1966. Approach from the base camp - altitude 2700 m to Iikchat via the On-tor glacier to the overnight stay location, under the route - 7 hours. Altitude 3400 m. August 8, 1966. Departure from the bivouac at 7:00.

1. Crossing the glacier with a slope of 20–25°, ascent up the avalanche cone at 35° to the bergschrund, crossing the bergschrund via a bridge (photo 1) - time 1 hour.

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Tian-Shan, Karakol gorge
3. Peak Karakolsky, via the center of the North face
4. Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent
5. Height difference — 1600 m, length — 1850 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 170 m, 6 cat. dif. — 248 m. Steepness of the route — 57°
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area (№ according to KTMGV) — Terskey Ala-Too, № p/p.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Karakolsky, 5281 m, North face (along the "snake").
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1631 m average steepness — 62° (wall) length of sections:
   • R1 — 80 m

PASSPORT

1. Snow-ice class.
2. Central Tien-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.
3. Peak Karakolsky via the Northern face through "Zmeika", variation.
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Elevation gain 1480 m, length 2050 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty is 1170 m. Average steepness of main sections is 60° (3800-4700).
6. Number of pitons: rock pitons 34, drilled закладок 6, ice screws 153.
7. Climbing hours - 32, days - 3.

69

Report

on the ascent of Peak Karakolsky (5216 m) via the northwest ridge. Terskey-Alatau ridge.

Team of the Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak"

consisting of:

1. Biryukov V.N. - leader
2. Alibegasvhili L.M. - participant
3. Onin A.A. - participant
4. Bochkov D.S. - participant
5. Musienko V.V. - participant

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, ridge, Karakol gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Number of pitons for belay: rock pitons — 6 pieces, ice screws were not used for creating intermediate belays.
7. Number of climbing hours:

• from the upper base camp under the glacier to the upper campsite — 2 hours.
• from the upper campsite to the couloir — 30 minutes.
• ascent through the couloir — 40 minutes.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: Traverse
2. Ascent region: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau
3. Ascent route: Traverse of Peaks Karbyshev, Blyukher, and Tukhachevsky from north to south, ascending Peak Karbyshev via the southern edge.
4. Ascent description: Ascent to Peak Karbyshev is category 5A difficulty. Traverse length is 2600 m. Height difference between peaks and cols is 400 m. Length of technically difficult sections is 850 m.
5. Number of pitons: Rock - 142, ice - 15

Ascent Log

1. p. Karbysheva is located in the Terskey-Alatoo range to the north of p. Karakolsky, between p. Blyukhera and p. Dyuklo. The route's ordinal number is 69, section 7.10 of the classification table.
2. Name — Pik Karbysheva. Route name — via the South Ridge.
3. Proposed category of difficulty is 4B.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference — 630 m.
6. Length — 870 m. Length of sections with category 5 complexity — 105 m. Average steepness of the route — 47°. Steepness of the main part of the route — 53°.
7. Number of pitons left on the route — 0 pcs.
8. No ITO was used; no drill-in anchors were used.

Ascent Certificate

1. ASCENT CLASS: technical
2. ASCENT AREA: Tian-Shan, Ontor gorge, Kara-Kol area
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the center of the Eastern wall.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: rocky ELEVATION DIFFERENCE: glacier–summit 900 m, wall section 250 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS: wall section 75–85°, entire route 40–50°. LENGTH OF 5–6 difficulty category sections: 280 m
6. PITS DRIVEN:

Route Description

To the summit of "Lithuanian Climbers" from the east via the wall - Category 4A difficulty:

• A. Petrauskas (leader)
• A. Buiko
• R. Valepetaite
• R. Vosylute
• V. Valatka
• M. Navelukas

Brief Description of the Summit