Climbing class — technical. Area of climb: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too. Climbing route with peak height — traversing the center of the north face of Pik Dzigit (5170 m). Climb characteristics: height difference 1370 m (without seracs), average steepness 78°, length of complex section 1270 m. Piton usage: standing, chock stones 163, ice screws 35, bolted 3. Total hours of climbing — 35. Number of nights and characteristics — 2 nights on the wall in hammocks, in "Pamirka" tents. Team name: team of Omsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Surname, first name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification: Kudashkin Yuri Valentinovich — Master of Sports, captain

ASCENT REPORT

1. Region, valley, classification table section number (2001): Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.44a
2. Peak name, route name: Dzhigit, via the center of the North face
3. Climbing category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1220 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1355 m. Length of sections: V category: 820 m, VI category: 370 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route: 78°

Author: Kirill Belotserkovsky, Almaty

Report on the ascent of Jigit Peak

I wrote a report on our ascent of Jigit Peak. It's a detailed one with numbers, diagrams, and photos. So it doesn't gather dust in the archives of various commissions, I'll post it online, maybe someone will find it interesting.

• Ascent Passport
• Region, valley, section number according to the classification table: Tian Shan, Teskey-Ala-Too, 7.10.44­a
• Name of the peak, route name: Jigit via the center of the north face (Slesov's route)
• Category of complexity: 6A
• Nature of the route: combined
• Height difference of the route: 1200 m

D.B. Sharashenidze

Center of the big triangle of the North wall

(Report on the first ascent) Team captain MS USSR Sharashenidze D.B. Team coach MS USSR Kartvelishvili G.I. Tbilisi – 1976

Tactical plan of the ascent

The tactical plan was made taking into account the specifics of the area, characterized by complex meteorological conditions. Reconnaissance confirmed that the route is a monolithic wall of great steepness, and there are practically no places for overnight stays in a tent. Therefore, the tactics of passing this route had to be fundamentally different, since hanging overnight stays during a long ascent period greatly exhaust the climber's strength. The main difficulties presented by the wall were as follows:

1. Transportation of cargo on the route.
2. Organization of reliable and safe overnight stays without a tent.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Karakol region, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Peak Jigit (5170), center of the large triangle of the north wall
4. Route 6B cat. diff.
5. Height difference — 1350 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — about 1000 m. Average steepness — 76°
6. Pitons driven — 156 pcs. ice screws — 7 pcs., chocks, loops — 32 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours (first climber) — 32 h

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan (Karakol) 3. Climbing route — p. Dzhigit 5170 via the triangle of the northern wall (Sharashanidze). 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Route description: elevation gain — 110 m (to the ridge) average steepness — 68° average steepness of the complex section — 85° length of the complex section (length of the section with 5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m route length — 1200 m (to the ridge)

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit, 5170 m, via the center of the large triangle of the North face.
4. Difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: route length — 940 m, height difference from the bergschrund to the ridge — 870 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 515 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 64, chocks — 54, ice screws — 37.
7. Team's travel hours: 24 hours and 2 days.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 sitting bivouac, carved in rock covered with ice.

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Kok-bor gorge
3. Peak Jigit (V), 5170 m, via NE ridge (Furman, 73)
4. Category of difficulty — 5B
5. Height difference — 1370 m Length — 1840 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 540 m Average steepness of main sections 63° (4100–4950) Including 6 category of difficulty (40 m) — 82° (4350–4360; 4470–4480; 4800–4820)
6. Pitons hammered in:

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF THE LITHUANIAN SSR May 21, 1970 TRAVERSING THE PEAKS OF JACQUES DUCLÔS — 4270 m — 4270 m — PIK G. AKSTINASA (KARAKOL VALLEY, TIAN SHAN) Leader: B. BINKAUSKAS, first ascent

Route Description

Traversing Jacques Duclôs – 4270 m – 4270 m – Pik G. Akstinasa

Category 3A route

The route starts from a campsite on the left moraine of the On-tor Glacier (see Scheme I). The campsite is well-protected from the wind, and there is water available, but it's necessary to dig trenches around the tents to avoid trouble from water flows resulting from rain. The ascent to Jacques Duclôs Peak begins with a climb straight up from the campsite. The route then proceeds through the following sections:

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION KIRGHIZ SSR ALPINISM FEDERATION 1965 USSR TEAM CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM. HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS. REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF KRAKOL'SKY PEAK 5280 m NORTH-EAST COUNTERFORT (TIAN-SHAN, TERSKEY ALA-TAU RANGE) BY THE KIRGHIZ REssoyuzsport TEAM ON JULY 25-30, 1965. Frunze, 1965 LENGNIK Olgert Mikhaylovich — Master of Sports, participant. Works as a researcher, physicist. Karabalty settlement, Kalinin district, Kirghiz SSR. Has been involved in alpinism since 1952. Participates in the USSR championship for the second time. 1965. Inspection of the counterfort in profile from the western side and 2) "testing" the state of snow when the temperature regime changes throughout the day.