69
Report
on the ascent of Peak Karakolsky (5216 m) via the northwest ridge. Terskey-Alatau ridge.
Team of the Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak"
consisting of:
- Biryukov V.N. - leader
- Alibegasvhili L.M. - participant
- Onin A.A. - participant
- Bochkov D.S. - participant
- Musienko V.V. - participant Frunze 1975
Brief explanation of the table
August 19. Departure at 3:30. We approach the route. The first two sections (R0–R1); (R1–R2) are traversed in crampons. We move quickly. Crampons hold very well. Protection via ice screws. These sections are completed in 1.0 hour. We approach the rocks - very smooth and monolithic. We traverse section (R2–R3) along an inclined rock shelf. Climbing is difficult - about 2 hours. We approach an internal corner, more like a groove, section (R3–R4), upwards, difficult, местами very difficult, about 3 hours. The internal corner turns into a chimney. Climbing is very difficult. We hang 4 ladders. We spent about 4 hours on the chimney. Section (R4–R5). The chimney ends in a fairly large platform (control point No. 1). From the platform, along a narrow shelf above the "ram's foreheads" section (R5–R6), we approach an ice overhang, 30 minutes. First, along a very steep ice slope up to 70° in crampons section (R6–R7) - 40 minutes, and then along a sheer ice face on ladders section (R7–R8), which in its upper part slightly overhangs section (R8–R9) and has a very porous structure - we have to drive ice axes into the ice. Very difficult sections. Without using ice screws, it would have taken twice as much time to complete this section. In total, about 7 hours were spent on traversing sections (R7–R8)–(R8–R9). We had to pull up our backpacks. After passing the overhang, we reach the firn fields and set up a bivouac at 21:30. The weather is warm and cloudy.
August 20. Again, firn fields section (R10–R11), turning into a snow-ice slope section (R11–R12). We spent 1.5 hours on these sections, moving in crampons. The weather is warm, snowy, and foggy. We approach the 1st bastion. We bypass the lower part of the bastion from the right along the ice. Protection via pitons driven into the bastion's rocks. The ice is very hard. A rather difficult passage section (R12–R13) - we climb for 3 hours.
We approach a chimney, the rocks are monolithic, with holds filled with snow and ice section (R13–R14). Climbing is very difficult. We spend about 3 hours. The chimney ends in a 5-meter wall with a small cornice section (R14–R15). We traverse on ladders. The weather is very bad, snowy, strong wind, cold. We climb the wall for about 5 hours. The wall ends in a rocky ridge, which gradually becomes more gentle sections (R15–R16); (R16–R17).
On the ridge, we dig out a platform and set up camp at 20:40. Control point.
August 21, 1953. The weather is very bad. Gusty wind, blowing snow. We depart at 9:00. Rocky-talus ridge, turning into broken rocks, forming the base of the 2nd bastion sections (R17–R18); (R18–R19) - 1 hour. We approach an internal corner section (R19–R20). Climbing is very difficult. The continuous stream of snow hitting our hands and faces is particularly hindering. We climb for 2 hours 30 minutes. The corner leads to a rocky ridge (R20–R21), ending in a gentle snowy ridge (R21–R22). The wind is hurricane-force. Snow. It is impossible to continue. We dig out a platform, build a wall, and set up a bivouac at 13:30.
August 22, 1953. We depart at 7:30. The wind has died down. Brief clearings. Cold. The snowy ridge leads to the base of a steep rocky ridge. Holds are iced over and snow-covered section (R22–R23). We traverse the ridge in 3 hours. We reach a very narrow corniced ridge section (R23–R24), leading to the summit of the 2nd bastion. From the bastion, we descend - 20 m (R24–R25) along a narrow corniced ridge to the foot of the "Camel" gendarme. 80 m of the same ridge (R25–R26) - and we are on the summit of the "Camel" (control point). The time spent on traversing the last three sections was about 2 hours. Descent from the "Camel" (R26–R27) down a steep ice slope "sporting style" - 30 minutes. After descending, we reach a narrow isthmus, from which a very steep rocky ridge leads (R27–R28) - 2.0 hours. Holds are iced over and snow-covered. The ridge leads to a very steep wall, iced over section (R28–R29), traversed on ladders. We have to knock off ice to find holds. The time spent on traversing the wall is about 4 hours. The wall ends in a not very steep rocky ridge, very snow-covered section (R29–R30), which turns into snow fields leading to the summit section (R30–R31). We climb for 1.5 hours. At 20:30, we are on the summit. We begin our descent to the west via the 4B category route and set up a bivouac at 22:00.
August 23. We continue our descent via the 4B category route. The weather is perfect. Sunny, windless. Slopes are very avalanche-prone; we stick to the ridges all the time. The snow is very deep. At 20:00, we safely reach the assault camp.
