Northern Tien-Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right edge of the first Bastion 3B category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien-Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western ridge
3. Proposed: 3B category of difficulty

Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrionok

via the central bastion of the NW edge 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrionok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western edge
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.

The approach to the bastion is described in the previous section (1.5 hours), but there is no need to bypass it from the right; the route goes along the left, main, face. At the top of the bastion, it joins route 3A, which leads to the summit. View of Mynzhipin from the road.

North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrionok via the bastion of the North Face

4A cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrionok 3650 m, via the counterfort of the North Face.
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.
4. Nature of the route: rock

7.2.172 Oktyabrenok

Center of the NE wall (Samara variant), 4B

K. Belotserkovsky, 2013 Description of the ascent, and why the variant is called "Samara" "North-Eastern wall of Oktyabrenok, Samara variant". A more direct variant of the previous route.

• A long 4B with a good level of climbing.
• On the fifth rope, large camalots (#4–5) may come in handy, or you will just have to endure a bit (I endured).
• The sixth rope, as described, can become famous due to its start.
• Difficult climbing on a slightly overhanging wall.
• Further, exit to a shelf via corners, where the routes converge.

Oktyabr (4140 m)

Ascent via the northern ridge — 2A cat. dif. (fig. 4)

The Oktyabr peak is located within the Kargalinsky spur system in the cirque of an unnamed glacier. Its ridge stretches in a meridional direction. The entire massif of the peak consists of three gradually rising eminences:

• the first eminence
• the second eminence
• the third eminence It's most convenient to traverse the route from north to south. Fig. 4. The approach to the route, similar to the peaks of Zestar and Gigant, is from the Prohodnoye gorge, but the turn to the west should be made a bit earlier, leaving to the left:

Orjonikidze via SW slope along the NE ridge from Orjonikidze Pass

Route description.

Peak Orjonikidze is located in the central part of the Malo-Almatinsky spur, is the highest point in this area. It is a large rocky massif with lateral ridges extending to the northwest and northeast, has significant glaciation:

• the East Orjonikidze glacier descends into the lateral valley of the Left Talgar;
• it is framed by the West Orjonikidze hanging glacier on the western side. The starting bivouac is at Orjonikidze Pass (3980 m). The approach to it is through the Tuyuk-Su glacier and its right lateral moraine, the Tuyuk-Su Needles glacier, and then to the foot of the pass. After overcoming a large talus, exit to the middle, and in the upper part of the slope - to the fine talus. The ascent length is up to 300 m. The ascent begins in a southerly direction:
• along the talus,
• then along easy rocks turning into a crumbling ridge.

Ordzhonikidze 4A c.c. via the Eastern counterfort

Route description.

The approach to the start of the route is through the Ordzhonikidze Pass. Descend to the East Ordzhonikidze Glacier, bypass the northern wall of the summit, approach the northeast ridge, and move along it down the glacier. Having bypassed the ice fall of the northeast ridge, ascend the scree to its lowering, to the left of the rocky part. Descent from the ridge along the scree to the nameless glacier between the northeast and southeast ridges of the summit. Descending along the glacier past the icefall of the "4089 m" peak, bypass two steep rocky spurs from the right and exit onto the northern counterfort of the southeast ridge of Ordzhonikidze. The exit to the characteristic lowering is via a wide, not clearly expressed couloir (be cautious of rockfall!). Move along the ridge part of the counterfort to the point of its junction with the southeast ridge. First section:

• Overcome an inner corner of a wall, 50-60 m long.
• Behind it is a control cairn. Further:
• Severely destroyed rocks of medium difficulty.
• Movement along the counterfort takes up to 2 hours.

North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Ordzhonikidze

via the right part of the North Face Category 4B difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Type of ascent: technical
2. Ascent area: North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Peak Ordzhonikidze (4410 m), via N slope, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4B, combined
5. Elevation gain: 600 m

Sportclub "Burevestnik" Group

consisting of:

1. Ilyinsky E.T. — leader, experienced climber
2. Toporkov A. — participant
3. Shablitskaya L. — experienced climber
4. Nevsky Ya. — experienced climber
5. From Myndzhilki, we ascended to the Tuk-Su moraine via a trail. From the foot of Mayakovsky, we had to trample a trail to the Ordzhonikidze Pass. The snow had become soggy by then and sank up to the waist. We spent the night on the pass as we reached it by the fourth hour.
6. The next day, we descended to the east Ordzhonikidze glacier. Initially, we traversed an scree slope, followed by a 60° ice slope. We traversed the glacier until we reached the terminal moraine beneath the northeast ridge's rock wall. The descent took 2 hours and 30 minutes. Then, we ascended towards the first rock wall via very deep snow. The ascent was directed towards a rock island standing before a couloir that led to the ridge (photos 1 and 2). The rock island was initially ascended directly via broken rocks. In the upper section, it was bypassed to the left via a 60° ice slope (1 rope length) with step-cutting, as the snow did not hold. Upon reaching the rock island, we continued ascending via the couloir to the left of our route. The first 1.5 rope lengths consisted of ice up to 70°, which was traversed with step-cutting and piton belay (2 pitons). Then, the slope became gentler, and the couloir was filled with snow above human height. Due to the loose snow and avalanche danger, we had to exit to the left wall and traverse diagonally upwards to the right with piton belay (3 rope lengths) — exiting into the upper section of the couloir. From here, a heavily snow-covered slope of approximately 45° led to the ridge (2 rope lengths).