Oktyabr (4140 m)

Ascent via the northern ridge — 2A cat. dif. (fig. 4)

The Oktyabr peak is located within the Kargalinsky spur system in the cirque of an unnamed glacier. Its ridge stretches in a meridional direction. The entire massif of the peak consists of three gradually rising eminences:

• the first eminence
• the second eminence
• the third eminence

It's most convenient to traverse the route from north to south.

Fig. 4.

The approach to the route, similar to the peaks of Zestar and Gigant, is from the Prohodnoye gorge, but the turn to the west should be made a bit earlier, leaving to the left:

• the chamber of the unnamed glacier;
• a small ridge extending from Oktyabr peak to the east.

The eastern slopes are bounded by a small isolated glacier, which flows down from the northern slope of the eastern ridge. Traverse the glacier in a northwest direction to reach the foot of the first eminence. The ascent goes up the eastern side via talus and broken rocks. On the eminence, there's a rock tower rising 30–35 m above the ridge and steeply dropping to the north. The descent from the first to the second eminence is via a couloir, then via broken rocks all the way to the foot. The ascent to the second eminence is from the northern side via a snowy slope with a gradient of 30–35°, then via moderately difficult rocks to its highest point. On the eastern side, there's a cornice (be cautious!). Continuing south towards the main peak, several gendarmes need to be bypassed on the right. Before the peak, a black gendarme is encountered, which should be traversed on the right with piton protection (2 pitons). Beyond the gendarme, there's an exit onto the ridge leading to the peak.

The ascent onto the ridge is the most challenging part of the route as it steeply rises for up to 60 m. Before the peak, the rock ridge becomes very narrow and requires piton protection all the way to the summit.

The descent is more convenient to the south. The first 10–15 m:

• via heavily broken rocks,
• then down a steep couloir with medium and fine talus,
• further onto the unnamed glacier,
• and then to the moraine at the initial bivouac.

Time required for the ascent — 8–9 hours.

The first ascent was made on October 17, 1952, by Almaty climbers V. Egorov and A. Maryashev.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the ascent: 6–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bezymyanogo glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5–6 a.m.
4. Equipment for a group of 4: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) rock pitons — 6–8; c) hammers — 2.