7.2.172 Oktyabrenok

Center of the NE wall (Samara variant), 4B

K. Belotserkovsky, 2013

Description of the ascent, and why the variant is called "Samara" "North-Eastern wall of Oktyabrenok, Samara variant". A more direct variant of the previous route.

  • A long 4B with a good level of climbing.
  • On the fifth rope, large camalots (#4–5) may come in handy, or you will just have to endure a bit (I endured).
  • The sixth rope, as described, can become famous due to its start.
  • Difficult climbing on a slightly overhanging wall.
  • Further, exit to a shelf via corners, where the routes converge.

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Descent from the summitimg-1.jpeg

From the summit, you need to descend on foot to the saddle and similarly exit to the false summit. Along it, move to the right - down to the cairn. To the right - below the cairn are rappel anchors. From them, it's exactly 25 m to the ground. From the saddle, you need to move to the left until you find yourself in a large couloir with fine scree. Do not descend from the saddle down! There is a path, trodden by some deer, that leads there. The path leads to a narrow couloir with large stones and a 3-meter wall at the end. Go left! Do not turn down.

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