Fig. 6

Muryntau (4539 m)

1. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge.
2. Traverse Muryntau — Togu­zak from the Togu­zak glacier. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge, route category 2. (fig. 10). The summit of Muryntau is located in the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the right branch of the Togu­zak glacier. To the north-west of it:

• Togu­zak pass
• Togu­zak peak

on crampons, then along the gully itself with flow ice for the first thirty meters on the right side — cutting steps. In the upper part, the gully is blocked by a rock wall 6–8 m high. It is also covered with flow ice. Protection is by pitons. Ascent through crevices. After 3–4 m, transition to the boundary of rocks and ice. Above the wall there is a ledge, convenient for belay. Above the gully, the slope is 45–50° steep, covered with ice. It is safer to pass it on the left side to the rocky ridge and traverse to the right upwards, and then move from one rocky section to another. The exit to the ridge itself is blocked by another 12-meter rock wall. Overcome it along inclined shelves. The exit to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. Along the ridge, move in the direction of the summit to the southeast. After 100–150 m, easy

Тraverse of Muruntau - Toguzak with ascent to Toguzak, category 2B route. The beginning of the route description is given in the section on ascending Muruntau peak. From Muruntau peak, the path goes along the southwest ridge to the saddle between Muruntau and Toguzak peaks. Initially, there is a descent with a height loss of 250-300 m. The ridge is snowy, with rocks protruding in some places, including a significant gendarme (bypassed to the left). The ridge has cornices hanging to the east. To the west, the ridge drops steeply for about four hundred meters. Careful belaying is necessary. On the saddle itself, there is a gendarme that is tackled head-on. After the gendarme, there is an ascent along the northeast ridge of Toguzak peak. The ridge is mostly icy and steep. At the beginning of the ridge, proceed for 200 m, then deviate to the east and, with step-cutting, overcome the remaining section to the sub-summit, which is connected to the summit by a short ridge. Toguzak peak is a narrow ridge rising several meters above the sub-summit. Cairns are built on the sub-summit and the summit. From Muruntau peak to Toguzak peak, it takes 3-3.5 hours. Descent is done along the ridge going west from the summit. The descent route is described in the ascent to Toguzak peak.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants - no more than 10 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the right moraine of Toguzak glacier.
3. Departure from the initial bivouac at 4:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes; b) 3-4 rock pitons; c) 2 hammers.

Nauka (3988 m)

Ascending the summit from the east — Category 1B difficulty

From the summit of Choybalsan, a ridge with minor glaciation extends southward. It is crowned by a peak (3988 m) later named Nauka. From the bivouac at Ozernoye Saddle, turn right and proceed to the col between Choybalsan and Nauka peaks. Upon reaching the col, partially via scree and snow, turn south and continue the ascent along the snowy ridge with a moderate slope. The ascent takes 6–7 hours. The descent follows the ascent route. The first ascent was made in June 1955 by Almaty climbers A. Maryashev and B. Studenin.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac at Ozernoye Saddle.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 7:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a 4-person team: 2 × 30 m dynamic rope.

ОПТЭ (4480 m)

Ascent from the Shokalsky glacier via the North-Eastern ridge, route category 2A (fig. 23). The summit of ОПТЭ is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the north of it lies the Shokalsky glacier, to the south - one of the branches of the Bogatyr glacier - the Shuitsa glacier. From the Talgar alpine camp, follow the trail up the gorge to the Shokalsky glacier. To the left of the river, ascend the steep lateral moraine of the glacier, along its upper part to a gentle sandy area. This is a possible bivouac site. From the camp - 4 hours walking. It is possible to continue along the same moraine further to a characteristic hill with a cairn. After three hundred meters - descend to the glacier. After a kilometer and a half, cross the glacier to the right towards the scree of the eastern spur. Here is also a convenient place

Fig. 23

North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via North-North-West ridge For category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via North-North-West ridge.
3. Proposed: 3A cat. dif.

North­ern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right part of the West Ridge Category III difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the West Ridge
3. Proposed: Category 3A

Пик Октябрёнок (3650 m), center of the Western Edge bastion, Zhergetal valley (ЗБ), cat. difficulty The description of the approach is given in the section of the 3A route on the right part of the Western Edge bastion. One needs to approach the bastion in its central part - where the grassy slope rises highest into a rocky cirque. The inner corner continues straight, but the ascent starts to the left of it, along the wall, and even further left - into a small corner, leading to a wide grassy ledge. Further, move left and upwards through a system of inner corners (sections R7–R12) to the top of the protruding edge, where it's convenient to organize a second belay station. From here, cross a steep wall (sections R13–R15) to the talus shelves of the upper part of the bastion. Along the shelves, move right onto the ridge onto the 3A route on the right part of the Western Edge bastion. Move along it to the summit. Descent to the south via 1Б.