I. Class of technically difficult ascents. 2. Pamir-Alay. Alay ridge. Arch-Kanysh gorge. 3. Peak Sovetskikh Shkolnikov (4850 m) via the center of the Eastern wall. 4. 5B category of complexity. 5. Characteristics of the route: a) height difference — 750 m, b) length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 506 m, c) average steepness — 75–80°. 6. Number of pitons hammered: a) rock pitons — 109,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Sovetskikh Shkolnikov Peak, 4850 m via the W wall (second ascent).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 750 m; average steepness 75°; length of sections with 4th cat. diff. – 220 m, 5th cat. diff. – 470 m, 6th cat. diff. – 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 23 ice — (dash)

ASCENT DOCUMENT 102

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Alai Ridge
3. Peak: Pik Synovey, height approximately 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — approximately 1100 m. average slope: 55° section lengths: 2nd difficulty category – 160 m, 3rd difficulty category – 190 m, 4th difficulty category – 300 m, 5th difficulty category – 590 m, 6th difficulty category – 40 m.
6. Pitons driven:

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Alai Range
3. Peak: Pik Synovey, height about 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 1100 m, average steepness: 55°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 160 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 190 m, 4th cat. diff. — 300 m, 5th cat. diff. — 590 m, 6th cat. diff. — 40 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 49

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area: AUSB "Dugoba", Alai ridge 3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Dugoba 4200 m, Eastern ridge 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A 5. Characteristics of the route: rock Elevation gain: 3700–4200 m (500 m) Length of sections with 5th and 6th category of difficulty: none Average steepness: 45–50° 6. Pitons hammered: rock 27, ice none, bolted none

2B on Maly Zamok, Dugoba, Pamir-Alai. Description

The route to the summit Maly Zamok, 3rd ascent, is categorized as 2B, via the South wall and East ridge, Pamir-Alai, Dugoba. 1st ascent - Bobrov Alexey (Yekaterinburg) +1, May 2012. The approach from the Dugoba alpine camp is similar to the 2A route on M. Zamok via the SE slope and E ridge (classifier section 5.1.1. #31). After the "crossroads of three couloirs," we follow the trail towards the 2A route for 300 m. After 300 m, the trail to 2A turns right onto the ridge, and we go left (a cairn is laid) under the wall. The landmark is a dry tree on the ridge slightly to the right of the start of the route and a large stone plug - directly on the route line. We move left along the scree slope, bypass the rock outcrops, and enter the right onto a ledge under the start of the route. The approach takes 2-3 hours, overall 20-30 minutes less than to the start of 2A. The landmark is a large green arch, from which the route begins (a station on the arch), along the inner corner.

Dugoba. Maly Zamok. Aleksey Tyulyupo

Lyosha Tyulyupo is currently in Dugoba, climbing in the mountains. He would have written this himself, but the internet there is, let's say, unstable. So, he asked me to post a couple of updates, sending the materials through an opportunity. And that's what I'm doing :0)) The first post is about a new route on Maly Zamok (4A) - a description and some thoughts on the topic.... This spring, an article about a new 3B route on Maly Zamok - the mountain closest to the Dugoba alp camp - appeared on "Risk". The experience of the summer gatherings showed that the route turned out to be very much in demand. However, few people know that a 4A route was laid out on the same wall. There were no enthusiasts to climb it during the May gatherings, so I didn't hurry with the report. A few days ago, we made a second ascent and:

• equipped the stations with bolts. Now, we can safely recommend this route to gathering participants with good rock climbing training.

Ascent Passport

2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge.
3. Peak Zvezdny 4780 m (approximately via NW ridge). First ascent.
4. Category 4A difficulty.
5. Height difference — 800 m. Section 5 — 40 m. Average slope 45°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 35 ice — 10
7. Ascent 14 hours.
8. Overnight on the pre-summit ridge. On fine rubble.
9. Leader — Perlov Mikhail Semenovich, 2nd sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area — Pamir-Altai, ridge — Altai.
2. Peak Bezymannaya, height 4780, via the Central Bastion of the NW wall.
3. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
4. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 780 m,
   • length of sections:
     • II difficulty category — 90 m
     • III — 270 m
     • IV — 340 m

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KALKUSH FROM THE PASS "CHETYREKH" (FOUR) 2B cat. diff. The summit of Kalkush (photo from the summit of Skalnaya) Approach routes:

• From the Dugoba alpine camp, ascend up the left side (orographically) of the Dugoba river to the second confluence (confluence of the Ak-Tash and Dugoba rivers).
• Here are the overnight stays.
• The journey from the alpine camp to the overnight stays takes 2.5–3 hours. From the overnight stays, the path lies to the pass "4-kh". First, upwards in the direction of the Kalkush summit, then under the eastern slopes of the Kalkush summit to the last (along the path) buttress of the summit. The path lies along a good trail. Then, bypassing the buttress, we begin the ascent to the pass "4-kh". The path lies across the scree. The ascent to the pass from the overnight stays takes 2 hours 30 minutes.