Report on the First Ascent

Teams from the Republic of Buryatia to p. Sauk-Djaylau 4866 m via the Bastions of the Northern Ridge. July 19, 2015. Approximately 5B–6A category of difficulty. Ulan-Ude, 2015.

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Archekanysh (Surmetash) gorge. Section number according to the classification table 5.1.1
2. Peak: Sauk-Djaylau 4866 m (peak coordinates: 39°46′0.47″ N 71°56′4.48″ E, height and coordinates determined by GPS), via the Bastions of the Northern Ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 5B–6A, first ascent, second ascent overall.
4. Route type: Combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 916 m (3950 m–4866 m). Route length: 1100 m.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Sauk-Dzhaylau (C) 5225 m via North face
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1505 m
   • route length — 1925 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1415 m
   • average steepness — 67.5

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Sauk-Djaylyau Central via the ice couloir on the north wall, category 6A, by a team from Tomsk region and St. Petersburg from September 6, 2019 to September 8, 2019.

I. Climbing Report

9.I. Ascent Passport

Ascent category — technical Ascent region (№ according to KTMTTV) — northern spur of the Alay Ridge (5.1) Peak, its height, and ascent route — South-Eastern Sauk-Djaylyau, 4730 m, from the north Expected category of difficulty — 5B Route characteristics:

• height difference: from the assault camp — 1210 m, from the saddle — 610 m
• average steepness — 63°
• purely rock section — 67%
• length of sections I — забито крючьев для страховки: for creation and T.O.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Alai Ridge (northern spur)
3. Peak: South-East Sauk Jailyau from the north (third ascent), 4730 m
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1210 m from the col at 600 m average steepness from the col 59° section lengths see table
6. Pitons used for protection to create ITO:

Sauk-Dzhaylau (Carpathian Military District) CA by 3B cat. diff., O. Onysko, 80

1. Team preparation for the ascent. Information about reconnaissance.

The current team of climbers from the Carpathian Military District is a collective that has existed for many years. This team constantly conducts joint training and has repeatedly made joint climbs of various difficulty categories, up to the highest. Team members took part successfully in the Championship of the Soviet Army and Navy in 1979. The Carpathian Military District team was preparing to participate in the technical class within the framework of the 1980 Soviet Army and Navy Championship in two directions:

• Physical, technical, and tactical training.
• Evaluation of information about the championship area, selection of the ascent object, and direct reconnaissance of the area. Physical, technical, and tactical training was conducted in two stages:
• The first stage — at the place of residence.
• The second stage — in the Fann Mountains. General physical training was conducted:

REPORT

On the ascent of the "Taymyr" club team at the XIII Open Russian Championship in Alpinism in the technical class Sauk-Jalau (SE) peak via the 3rd wall — 6A category of complexity Team coach and captain — Kudrim A. V. 1995 For any questions regarding the report, please contact: 663319, Norilsk, Ordzhonikidze St., bld. 2, apt. 93, A. V. Kudrin. | Section | Length | Steepness | Category |

Sauk-Dzhaiylau South peak via the West wall, 6A cat. (Onysko route) Pamiro-Alai 5.1.1. Alai Ridge

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alai, Archa-Kanysh valley.
3. Sauk-Dzhaiylau South peak via the West wall.
4. 6A cat. (3rd ascent)
5. Height difference 1330 Wall section height difference 980 Average steepness of the wall section 73°. Route length 1440.

29.09.69. 4540

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Alay range — 5.1
3. Peak, its height, route — Main Sauk-Dzhaylyau via Central peak with ascent to Central peak via northern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6th cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference:
   • to Central peak — 1505 m
   • to Main peak — 198 m Total height difference of wall section — 1703 m