Western Tian Shan

Report on the ascent of the Kazakhstan national team to Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the Ovcharenko Route, category 6A, in the Pamir-Alay range.

2021 World Mountain Championship, High-Altitude Technical Climbing Class Report of the National Team of the Republic of Kazakhstan Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the right edge of the northwest wall, Ovcharenko route (1988), 6A category. Ascent Passport Region, gorge: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range. Karavshin gorge. Section number according to the classification table of climbing routes № 5.4.3 (according to the FAR classifier). Name of the peak, route name: Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the right edge of the northwest wall (Ovcharenko route, № 5.4.3.24d according to the FAR classifier). Category: 6A Route type: rock Height difference of the route: 1000 m (wall section 900 m) Route length: 1200 m

Report on the ascent to the summit of Big Chimgan (3309 m) via a combined route of 2A category of difficulty.

First ascender: Zhukov V. — rest of the information is lost. Further data on Shekhovtsov S.'s group. Ascent Passport Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge. #7 / 7.12 according to the 2001 classifier Mt. Bolshoy Chimgan. 3309 m via N ridge / W spur. Proposed category: 2A category of difficulty Route type: Combined (ridge) Route elevation gain: 1499 m (by GPS) Route length: 3680 m (by GPS) Section lengths: II category of difficulty – 2267 m (by GPS)

### Route Description Along the Northwest Wall of the Mountain Detailed analysis of sections and technical difficulty.

Photo — 4. Date taken — 1986. Lens — Industar-52. Distance — 4 km. Shooting height — 4000 m. Shooting point number — 4. 1 — Kritsuk route on C 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 2 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" 3" wall, cat. 6 1988. 3 — Voronov route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 4 — Kopeyka route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 5 — Pogorelov route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 6 — Moroz route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 7 — Gorbenko route on C NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 8 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" NW wall, cat. 6 1988.

Description of the route "along the center of the North-West wall of the peak Asan" 6B category of complexity, climbed by a team of climbers in 1991.

Passport Category — rock climbing. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river). Peak Asan, centre of the North-West wall (Rusyayev's route). 6B category of difficulty. Height difference — 730 m. Length — 1095 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 950 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 72°. Pitons hammered: | Rock Pitons | Bolt Pitons | Nuts | Holes for sky-hooks | | :---------- | :--------- | :----- | :------------------ |

First ascent via the left part of the eastern wall of "Yellow Wall" peak in Karavshin valley, Kyrgyzstan, cat. 5A.

Ascent Passport Area — Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin Valley (Kara-Su river basin) 5.4.3. Peak — Yellow Wall, via the left part of the east wall Proposed — 5A category, first ascent Route type — rock climbing Route characteristics: Elevation gain of the main section — 600 m, route length — 800 m. length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 120 m, 5th category — 280 m

Ascent via the SW wall of Peak Slesova (4240 m) in the Pamir-Alay range, cat. 6A, 1590 m, 1200 m elevation gain, 3 days, 35+ climbing hours.

Rock climbing. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin. Peak Slesova (4240 m) — via SW wall. 6A category of difficulty, presumably, first ascent. Height difference: 1200 m, length 1590 m, average steepness 61°, steepest parts 72°, length of sections 5th category of difficulty 550 m 6th category of difficulty 336 m Pitons driven: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | Ice pitons |

Report on the first ascent of the route category 5A to the summit of Zheltyaya Stena (3800 m) in the Kara-Vishin gorge.

Report on the first ascent To the summit: Zholтая стена (3800 m) Via the route: Left of the Center of the Eastern wall, from the shelf Category of complexity: 5A cat. sl. (proposed) By the team of the Irkutsk region: Klepikov A.A., Lazarev S.A., Tokmachev A.A., Vitvitsky D.S., Kazantseva E.V. The ascent was made on July 31, 2023. I. Ascent Passport | № п.п. | 1. General Information | | | :----- | :----------------------------------------------------------------- | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |

Report on the ascent made by the national team via the 6A cat. sl. route up the Northwest wall of Pik Asan in Pamir-Alay.

Report of the team from the Republic of Bashkortostan and Novosibirsk region on the ascent of Pik Asan via the Northwest wall, Pogorelov's route, 6A category of difficulty. Climbing Passport Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge, Turkestan range Name of the peak, route name: Asan via the left part of the western wall (Pogorelov's route) Category of difficulty: 6A Route type: rock climbing Height difference of the route: 1000 m (wall section 670 m) Route length: 1270 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 78° Equipment used on the route: anchor pitons — 80 pieces

First ascent of the northern spur of the Turkestan Range, Peak 4810, via the left part of the Northwest Wall, cat.6B難度.

I. Technical grade. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley. Peak 4810 m, via the left part of the North-West wall. First ascent, approximately 6B cat. dif. Height difference — 1260 m, length — 1760 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 1460 m. Average slope of the route — 66° Average slope of the wall part of the route — 73° Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | nut | sky-hook holes |

Description of the route of 6B category of complexity to Peak 4810 m via the right edge of the NW wall in the Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range.

Passport Technical class Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge Peak 4810 m, along the right edge of the NW wall 6A category of difficulty Elevation gain: 950 m. Length: 1080 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty – 820 m. Average steepness of the route: 70°. Average steepness of the wall section: 80°. Number of pitons driven: Rock: 47/28