Western Tian Shan
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateClimbing Passport for Peak Leningradets via the North Face, category 5B, in the Pamir-Alay range.
Ascent Log
I. Class: technical 2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Range 3. Ascent route: Leninets Peak via North face 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1100 m; length of 5-6 difficulty section 925 m; average steepness 60° 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock 22, ice 42, chocks 26 7. Climbing hours: 13 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: none 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent record of the Leningradets peak (5040 m) via the North wall, rated 5B difficulty category, climbed in 1960 by a team consisting of Tarasevich and Okladnikov.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge
- Peak, its height: Leningradets, 5040 m, via North wall Ascent route: 5B (validated route)
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B category of difficulty
- Route characteristics: Height difference 1200 m
Average steepness 70°
Length of sections:
- 3–4 category of difficulty — 630 m
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
SSummitMateReport by the Ural Military District team on the ascent of Pik Leningradets via the Central Bastion of the North Face in 1980, category 5B difficulty level.
SA and Navy Alpine Championship
— TECHNICAL CLASS —
Report
Ural Military District team's ascent of Pik Leningradets via the Central Bastion of the North Face (rated route 5B cat. difficulty) Kharitonov A.P. — CMS, team leader Zadvoryev Yu.V. — CMS Povolotsky V.Yu. — CMS Tarkhov E.V. — 1st sports rank Team coach MS — Mikhailov A.A. Pamir-Alay
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
SSummitMateAscent certificate for Lenigradets peak (5,040 m) via the North Face, rated 5B difficulty, climbed by a team led by Sergey Tarasovich in 1960.
Ascent Certificate
- Ascent classification: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
- Peak, its height: Leninградец, 5040 m, via the central part of the north face, ascent route: qualifying route.
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics:
Elevation gain 1200 m
Average slope: 76°.
Length of sections:
- 3–4 difficulty category – 140 m
Route Description: центру левой части СВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the passage of a category 5B route along the northeast wall of the Leningradets peak in the Alai Range by a group of climbers led by A. Salmy in 1985.
Passport
I. Technical class. 2. Alayskiy ridge, Archa-Kanysh gorge. 3. Peak Leningradets via the center of the left part of the NE wall, 4980 m, rock. 4. 5B, second ascent. 5. the entire route wall is the most technically challenging part
| Height difference | 1050 m | 650 m | 4200–4680 m (480 m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Length | 1600 m | 765 m | 580 m |
| Of which 6 and 5 cat. diff | 580 m | 580 m | 450 m |
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent to Peak 4804 (LTI Peak) via the North-Eastern ridge, rated as Category 3B difficulty in the Pamir-Alay range.
Passport
First ascent to the summit peak 4804 (peak LTI) via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3B (tentative)
- Class — technical
- Climbing area — Pamir-Alay
- Summit, height, ascent route — peak 4804 via NE ridge
- Proposed difficulty category — 3B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 260 m, average slope — 33°
- Pitons driven: for belay — 17 Rock — 17 Ice —
Route Description: СЗ гребню
SSummitMate### First Ascent of Peak 4804 via the Northwest Ridge (Category 3B Difficulty) The ascent involves a challenging route with complex terrain, characteristic of high-altitude mountaineering. Key stages include navigating steep ridges, overcoming ice and snow obstacles, and utilizing technical climbing skills. The route's difficulty is categorized as 3B, indicating a significant level of complexity and risk, requiring experienced climbers with appropriate technical skills and physical conditioning.
Passport
First ascent to peak 4804 via the northwest ridge, category 3B difficulty (approximate)
- Class — technical
- Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Surmitash valley, area of "Dugoba" alpine camp
- Peak, height, ascent route — peak 4804 m via NW ridge
- Estimated difficulty category — 3B
- Route characteristics: length of sections by difficulty — category 4 — 80 m, category 3 — 320 m; average steepness — 50°
- Pitons hammered for belay:
Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMateClimbing Certificate for Mt. Mashalyan via the "Rusty Wall", Category 5B difficulty, 1020 m elevation gain, 890 m of rock terrain, average slope 70°.
Ascent Passport
I. Class: rock 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge 3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South wall 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1020 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty cat.: 890 m average steepness: 70°
Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMate### Climbing route description to Mashlyan peak via SE wall - Category of difficulty - Length 1370 m - Height difference 1020 m - Average slope 85°
ASCENT PASS
- Class: rock
- Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
- Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South face
- Difficulty category: 5B (2nd)
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain: 1020 m
- length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 910 m
- average steepness: 65°
- Pitons used:
Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent to Mashalyang peak via the South wall, category 5B difficulty, third ascent.
Report
on the ascent to Mashalyan peak via the South wall, category 5B (third ascent)
SKA UralVO Team:
- Mikhailov A.N. — team leader and coach, Master of Sports
- Evsyukov G.K. — deputy leader, Master of Sports
- Povolotsky V.Yu. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Kharitonov A.P. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
Table
of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Mashalyan peak via the South wall