Western Tian Shan

Description of the first ascent route to the summit "4200" in the Western Tian Shan via the North Edge, complexity category 5⁶ technical grade.

PASSPORT Class — rock climbing Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge. Ascent of peak "4200" via the North Edge, first ascent. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B. Height difference: 720 m, route length: 960 m, of which 5–6 category of difficulty: 420 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 60 | — | 25 | — |

**Traverse of Koptau peak (4100 m), category IIb, description of the first ascent route from 1962.**

32 Description Traversing the peak KOPTAU (4100 m) No. 2. (First ascent). Departure from the bivouac, located by the lake, at dawn, at 5 or 5:30 am, but no later. Immediately behind the lake, the ascent of the terminal moraine of the ancient glacier begins (height 40–50 m); keeping to the right side, we ascend a few more gentle and small ascents and exit to the middle talus. To our left will be two slabs. One rises above the other by 1.5–2 m, the slabs are smoothed to 30° steepness. If there is snow on the slabs, they can be passed, if they are without snow, it is better to bypass them on the fairly small talus to the right (downhill). On the talus to the right, we ascend above the gorge, which is exposed to rockfall from the very early morning. Then, keeping to the right side, we head towards the false saddle. The path goes along a fairly steep snowfield (45–50 degrees). To our left remains a long ridge leading to the summit. When we come level with the beginning of the ridge, we need to climb steeply to the left to the foot of the ridge. Its northwest wall is completely sheer, with no snow or loose rocks, and under it is fairly dense deep snow. Until now, in most cases, the snow lies on the slabs, and when traversing in the lower part, it is possible to get caught in an avalanche. The entire path to the foot of the ridge will take one and a half to two hours. Then, keeping at a distance of 30–50 meters from the ridge on the snowfield, we ascend to the imaginary saddle, which is visible as two patches of talus. We need to exit to the left part between the talus and the ridge. This section of the path will take another hour and a half.

Report on climbing the western ridge of **Al'tus** 3090 m peak in the Ugam Range, Tian Shan, category 2A, undertaken by the "Sairam-2009" alpinade group.

ALTUS ZAPADNYI 3090 m via western ridge, cat. dif. ASANOV B.Zh., 2009 [email protected] 7.11 — Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge Report on ascending the western ridge of mt. ALTUS (7.11 — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge), made by the group of alpinada "SAIRAM — 2009" (opened by Mountaineering Federation of South Kazakhstan region) Annex 1: ASCENT FILE Ugam ridge, Sairam-Su river valley (7.11) Altus Zapadnyi 3090 m via western ridge X)

Ascent to the "Altus" peak (3200) via the northern ridge, category of difficulty 3B, description of the route and its sections.

Ascent Log ASCENT TYPE — ROCK CLIMB ASCENT AREA — UGAM RANGE PEAK "ALTUS" (3200), NORTH RIDGE DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B ELEVATION GAIN — 700 m NUMBER OF ROCK ANCHORS — 21 TOTAL CLIMBING TIME — 12 hours TEAM MEMBERS: 1) RAFIKOV SH.R. — 2nd sports category

Description of the first ascent of a Category III rock climbing route along the western ridge of BARS-I peak (Tian Shan, Ugam Range) and a new route to the eastern summit of ALTUS.

ASCENT DOCUMENT ASCENT DOCUMENT Class: Rock Climbing Region: TIAN-SHAN, Ugam Range (7.II) Peak: ALTUS Height according to "KMGV-99": 3200 m BARS-I 3800 m First Ascent Routes and proposed difficulty categories: Via Sofia's Shelf to the eastern ridge: 3A combined Via Sofia's Shelf to the western ridge: 3B combined

Description of a category 2B complexity route to the summit of Altus (3200 m) via the left northern ridge in the Ugam Range of Tian Shan.

PHOTO # 9: Morning view of the Altus massif from the North (August 1998) PHOTO # 10: Morning view from the East on the left northern ridge of Altus (May 1998). The described route is shown by a solid line on both photographs. ASCENT DOCUMENT # 4 Class: ROCK CLIMB Region: TIEN-SHAN, Ugam ridge Peak: ALTUS Height: 3200 m (according to KTMGV-89) Route and proposed category of difficulty: via the left northern ridge of Altus 3200, 2B (rock) (A. Yusev, 1998)

Description of the category 2B route to the summit of Altus (3200 m) in the Ugam Range of Tian Shan with details of the ascent and descent recommendations.

TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION Approach to the "Tower" — ONLY via the large Altus couloir! From the "1860" fork — along the northern slopes of Altus into the couloir; from the "Green Hill 2300" — cross over to the left northern ridge of Altus (1 hour to the wide saddle) into the couloir. R0–R1: diagonal ascent 110 m II up to 40° left across the rocks to the ridge, followed by a 15 m descent into the saddle. R1–R2: from the saddle (with belay from the ridge) along the wall 21 m III 60° (2 pitons) and traverse along the ledges left-upward behind the spall 10 m II 45° (1 cam) ("2" — station). R2–R3: to the ledge under the cornice (hanging control cairn), 6 m II 45°, bypass the cornice from the left along the crack and slab 8 m IV avg. 60° (2 pitons) and into a shallow inner corner up to the ridge 10 m III 50° (2 pitons, 2 cams) (pull up the second for belay from "3" — station). R3–R4: to the right of the ridge traverse right-upward 20 m II+ up to 60° (4 pitons, 2 cams) to a sloping ledge under the wall ("4" — station). R4–R5: no bypass to the left! traverse down-right and up along the steep inner corner back to the ridge (up to the end of the 45 m rope) 10 m II 30°, 10 m IV 70° (2 pitons, 1 cam), 20 m II+ up to 50° (outcrops). R5–R6: diagonal traverse of rocky outcrops rightward through the "Shovel" to the right side of the northern ridge and along it (leftward are drop-offs!) to the summit 450 m I–II up to 40°. NOTE: