2B on Maly Zamok, Dugoba, Pamir-Alai. Description

The route to the summit Maly Zamok, 3rd ascent, is categorized as 2B, via the South wall and East ridge, Pamir-Alai, Dugoba. 1st ascent - Bobrov Alexey (Yekaterinburg) +1, May 2012.

The approach from the Dugoba alpine camp is similar to the 2A route on M. Zamok via the SE slope and E ridge (classifier section 5.1.1. #31). After the "crossroads of three couloirs," we follow the trail towards the 2A route for 300 m. After 300 m, the trail to 2A turns right onto the ridge, and we go left (a cairn is laid) under the wall. The landmark is a dry tree on the ridge slightly to the right of the start of the route and a large stone plug - directly on the route line.

We move left along the scree slope, bypass the rock outcrops, and enter the right onto a ledge under the start of the route.

The approach takes 2-3 hours, overall 20-30 minutes less than to the start of 2A. The landmark is a large green arch, from which the route begins (a station on the arch), along the inner corner.

3 m from the start of the route, a hook is hammered
10 m along the route, a large dry branch sticks out of the rock
On the ledge at the start of the route, a cairn is laid

Waiting participants should move further to the right onto the ledge under the overhanging rock while the work is being done on the 1st rope.

1st rope

R0–R1 - straight up from the tree along the inner corner, 18 m, IV+, 80–85°. Then also up along the wall-ledges III+, 60–70°, 25 m, and to the right onto a large ledge under a large wedged stone. Many cracks for protection, medium and small stoppers fit well.

1–20 GYJAROGA

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R1–R2 - we climb the wedged stone from the left along a crack, 15 m IV+ (crux), then straight up along a system of walls-ledges, 28 m III+, to a large ledge. The terrain suits medium and small stoppers.

R2–R3 -

to the right along a wide scree ledge 50 m I
then 5 m up I
we climb onto the ridge, where those going 2A usually connect.

Further along the 2A route to the summit.

The route is logical, with convenient places for stations for a group of 5-6 people, sufficiently monolithic terrain (limestone), and intermediate points and stations are easily organized with the help of stoppers. The route was cleaned by the last participant.

There is a risk of rope-induced rockfall:

from the second section of the 1st rope onto the start of the route,
from the second section of the 2nd rope onto the R1 station.

Both at R0 and R1 stations, there is enough space and terrain for the safe placement of the group. Rocks from the 2nd rope fly "behind the back" of those climbing R0–R1, posing no danger, but "hit" the area under the approach to the route.