Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Sovetskikh Shkolnikov Peak, 4850 m via the W wall (second ascent).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 750 m; average steepness 75°; length of sections with 4th cat. diff. – 220 m, 5th cat. diff. – 470 m, 6th cat. diff. – 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 23 ice — (dash) protection elements — 73 for creating belay stations: rock — 6 ice — (dash) protection elements — 7
7. Number of climbing hours: 11 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: no bivouacs.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their sports qualification:

Sapozhnikov Yuri Georgievich CMS Laptenok Valery Dmitrievich CMS 10. Team coach: Yakovlev Vitaly Dmitrievich. 11. Date of departure and return: – departure August 12, 1979 at 3:00 – return August 12, 1979 at 17:00

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Table of main route characteristics

Brief explanation of the table

Section: Explanations: R0–R1 Snowy edge with embedded stones. R1–R2 Wall heavily damaged from falling rocks, section with increased rockfall hazard. R2–R3 Inclined slabs resembling "sheep's foreheads" with short sheer walls. There are small ledges covered with gravel. Control cairn at the end of the section. R3–R4 Wall with overhanging protrusions turns into a ledge ending in a break-off. R4–R5 After the break-off, movement straight up the wall, then along an internal corner that ends in an inclined ledge. R5–R6 Chimney 4 m, with overhanging loose rocks, then a sheer wall. Extremely difficult climbing. R6–R7 Along the right edge of the rib: a slab with small holds 15 m, further up the wall to the rib. R7–R8 Heavily damaged rib. Section with increased rockfall hazard. R8–R9 Chimney with loose rocks. R9–R10 Rib traversed along the boundary between rock and ice.