Western Tian Shan

Description of the ascent route to the DOLOLOI ZAPADNYI summit via the northern ice-and-snow slope (4A category of complexity) in the North-Western Tian Shan region.

ASCENT PASSPORT Climbing type: rock Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope Estimated difficulty category: 4A Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50° Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted — Number of travel hours: 6

Ascent to Dvopoy Peak (4355 m) via the North Central Ridge, category 4 difficulty, Talas Alatau Range, Western Tian Shan.

Nearby ascents, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge. Summit, its height, ascent route — p. Dvopoy 4355 m, via the north central edge. 35 km Estimated difficulty category — 4° cat. diff. Route characteristics: height difference, section length 1–6 km, average steepness in degrees — 600 m, 11–400 m, 11–17 — 190 m, 17 — 130 m, 17–7 — 65 m, 45°–50°. Number of loops hammered in for insurance to create artificial support points. Rock — 12 Ice — 5 Hook anchors —

Ascent to Jolo Peak (4355 m) via the North Central Ridge, category 4 complexity, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for climbers.

4135 Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m) From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle. The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long. This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux. The ascent continues along the ridge: Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3. Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.

Ascent to Joloï Peak (4355 m) via the northern spur of the north-eastern ridge, category 3B difficulty, route description and recommendations for climbers.

ASCENT PASSPORT Ascent class — technical Ascent area, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Tanassky ridge. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzholoy, 4355 m, via the North counterfort of the North-Eastern ridge. Presumed difficulty category — 3B category. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5, average steepness in degrees. 800 m, 950 m, II–III — 150 m, III — 800 m. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial holds: Rock — 5 Ice — Bolt —

Ascent to the summit Dvoeglazyi (4355 m) via the NE ridge in the Talas Ala-Too range, category of difficulty 2B, altitude difference 1300 m.

Climbing area, ridge — C — 8 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge Peak, its height, ascent route — Dvoeglazy, 4355 m NW ridge Estimated category of difficulty — 2B Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1–5 km, average slope in degrees — height difference 1300 m, avg. slope 40°, length of sections: Cat. I complexity — 800 m Cat. II complexity — 300 m Placement of pitons for insurance to create artificial anchor points:

The ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m) via the left counterfort of the north-eastern wall, difficulty category 4B, made in November 1980.

The summit, its height, and the ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), the left buttress of the north-eastern wall. Proposed category of difficulty: 4B. Characteristics of the route: height difference along the route — 1677 m. average steepness of the route — 70° length of sections of category I difficulty — 2500 m, II category difficulty — 1880 m, III category difficulty — 190 m, IV category difficulty — 85 m, V category difficulty — 220 m, VI category difficulty — 20 m Number of pitons driven: for belaying 114 pcs; for creating artificial footholds 2 pcs. rock — 114 pcs, ice and snow — Number of travel hours — 23 hours. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight stay, on a scree ledge, good bivouac. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Leader: Murtazin Oleg Galimovich — 1st sports category.

Description of the 3A category complexity route to the summit of **Bolshoy Chimgan** via the left buttress of the north-eastern wall, including details on the approach, ascent, and key characteristics of the climb.

Map of the area ▲ – base camp △ – overnight stay location → – ascent and descent route from the summit. Brief description of the route Brief description of the approach to the route From the "Chimgan" tourist center, head upwards towards the GuliKam or Pesochny pass (1833 m). Then, through the pass, into the GuliKam gorge until the confluence of GuliKamsay and Kuilyuksay (1.5–2 hours). Here, the trail branches: one leads to the GuliKam gorges; the other — upstream along the Kuilyuksay riverbed to the start of the route — the base of the far-reaching left counterfort of the north-eastern wall of Bolshoy Chimgan.

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Big Chimgan (3207 m) via the North-Eastern wall, a 4A category difficulty route, including technical details and photographs.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — technical. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge. Ascent route — to the summit of Big Chimgan via the north-eastern wall. Summit elevation — 3207 m above sea level. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 2000 m; average steepness — 62°; complex section length — 700 m. Pitons hammered in: rock — 35

Description of the ascent route, category 4A, to the summit of Bolshoy Chimgan (3207 m) via the northwestern wall in Tian Shan.

Climbing Passport I. Climbing category — technical. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Chatkal Range. Climbing route — to v. Bolshoy Chimgan via the northwest wall, peak height — 3207 m above sea level. Climbing characteristics: — height difference — 1500 m, — average steepness — 65°, — length of the difficult section — 600 m. Pitons hammered: — rock — 55

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Big Chimgan via the left counterfort of the wall, category 3B complexity.

Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Bolshoy Chimgan via the Left Counterfort of the Wall, Category 3B February 6, 1978 We depart from the base camp located in the Ak-Sai valley at 10:00. We ascend to the Western Ridge via a Category 1B route. Upon reaching the junction of the Western Ridge and a false ridge (joining from the right), we descend with a slight traverse of the Western Ridge towards the summit. Descending into the Belder-Sai valley, we move upstream until the confluence of three couloirs. We continue up the left couloir. Approaching the wall, it's easy to identify the counterfort, which the route follows, forming the right side of the central couloir that divides the entire Belder-Sai rock massif into two parts. The route begins from a cave located at the boundary between snow and rock, one rope length away from the left edge of the counterfort. The cave provides a good overnight stay and has a guiding cairn. The entire approach took 9–10 hours. February 7, 1978 Departure at 9:30. R1