Climbing Passport. 5.2.110 Climbing Class: Rock (Combined) Climbing Area: Igizakov area (5.2.) Peak, its height, and climbing route: "Ular", 3900 m via the Northwest Ridge, cat. dif. "Ular" Estimated Difficulty Category: 3A Route Characteristics: Height difference: 300 m Average steepness: 50° Section lengths: 2–150 m; II–100 m; III–240 m; Pitons driven:

Ascent to the peak ULAR from the Ular glacier via the NW ridge — cat. III

The ascent to the peak is made from the "Zelenaya polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivachnaya. From the camp, one should go upstream along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsli, Ular, Khyrс, Kulay Dzovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, which is crossed to the left in the direction of the Ular massif (its NW ridge), leaving the Vorob'inyi pass to the right. The ascent route to the NW ridge goes along the rib to the left of the third couloir (counting from the bottom) from the Ular glacier plateau. The couloir is steep and narrow and leads to the saddle of the NW ridge. Start the ascent via this couloir. Approaching the bergschrund, leave the steep snowy couloir leading to the gap in the NW ridge to the right (hereinafter referred to as the gap between the 1st and 2nd jandarmes), cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, or if the bridge is absent, descend into the crevasse.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Ular, 4000 m, via the southern counterfort. S. wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a) Height difference — 250 m. b) Length of sections with 4A difficulty category – 50 m, 3rd category – 200 m. c) Average steepness — 60°.
6. Pitons driven:

Protocol № 052.788 Climbing category — Visual. Climbing area — Ugizakov area. Peak, its height and ascent route — Ular, 3700 m, via the counterfort of the southern wall. Proposed difficulty category — 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, average steepness — 30°, length of sections: 1. 110 m,

1. Class of ascent — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Festivalnaya, 4350 m via the Left northern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a/. Height difference — 400 m; b/. Length of sections with 4A category difficulty – 145 m; c/. Length of sections with 3B category difficulty – 370 m; d/. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Number of pitons driven:

Description of the First Ascent to the Festivalnaya Peak via the North Face

The Festivlnaya peak is located in the upper reaches of the Mama River, in the southern spur of the Hissar Range - south of the Proni Siam and South Siam peaks. This spur stretches from north to south and sharply turns east near the Festivlnaya peak. There are two Festivlnaya peaks:

• Eastern
• Western (main, height 4350 m), which are elevations on a massive ridge stretching in a latitudinal direction. A route along the ridge from east to west was previously traversed and is rated as a 4A category route. The northern slopes of the peak are steep, with snow-covered rocks and steep snow and ice couloirs in many places. A significant snow and ice couloir descends from the saddle between the Eastern and Western peaks. The rocks on the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the couloir are heavily destroyed, and stones are constantly falling from there. To the right of the couloir, there are two counterforts separated by a snowy slope, and ascent routes to the peak are possible via both.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class - Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region - Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Osman-Tala mountains 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route - SIYEKH (BLACK), 4100 m, via the northwest buttress of the north wall 4. Proposed difficulty category - 4B 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1300 m, average steepness 65° Length of sections - R1 - 380 m, R2 - 710 m, R3 - 530 m, R4 - 500 m, R5 - 60 m, R6 - 0 m 6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating A.T.O. rock 7. Number of climbing hours - 18.5 hours

Ascent to the summit Studencheskaya

from N.-E. with cat. difficulty From the overnight stays under the Studencheskaya peak, cross to the right bank of the Siama River and ascend to the moraine located to the N.-E. of the Studencheskaya peak. Then, via a couloir and easy rocks, ascend to the snowy plateau located in the N.-N.-E. part of the Studencheskaya peak massif. Traverse the plateau to the left, approach the "window" in the northern ridge of the peak, and through it, exit under the N.-E. rocky slopes of the peak. The following options are possible:

• Ascend via the N.-E. scree slopes of the peak from the Siama River.
• Traverse the scree slopes of the eastern cirque via the scree near the rocks, pass through two couloirs, and approach the fourth one. The landmark is that the peak is visible from it. Ascend via the snow, and then via the rocks. In the upper part of the couloir, there is steep snow; ascend with protection up to the wall at the end of the couloir. The wall above the couloir has a pronounced crevice with chimneys, which is used for further ascent. The first rocky outcrop of the wall, resembling "ram's foreheads," is passed with piton protection (30 m), then:
• leftwards, bypassing the rocky ridge on the left

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category

• technical

2. Ascent area

• Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route

• p. Studencheskaya 3792 m, via W wall.

4. Estimated category of difficulty

• 5A

5. Route characteristics

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Khodzha-Lokan, 4767 m, South Face.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1100 m, b) length of 5B difficulty sections — 525 m, c) average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons driven: