Western Tian Shan

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Big Chimgan (3277 m) via the North-West face, category 3A difficulty, with detailed technical details and characteristics of the route.

Ascent Certificate Ascent class — rock climbing. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge. Peak, its area, and ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), Northwest Wall. Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, average steepness — 30°. Section lengths: R0–R1 – 25 m, R1–R2 – 60 m, R2–R3 – 60 m, R3–R4 – 70 m, R4–R5 – 200 m, R5–R6 – 40 m, R6–R7 – 80 m, R7–R8 – 300 m. Proposed difficulty category — 3A. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 12.

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m) via the West face of the North ridge, category 3A difficulty.

Ascent Passport Climbing type: rock climbing. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge. Peak, its area and ascent route: Bolshoi Chimgan, 3277 m, West wall of the North ridge. Route description: height difference — 1700 m, average steepness — 40°. Length of sections R1–40 m, R2–20 m, R3–25 m, R4–50 m, R5–120 m, R6–40 m, R7–80 m, R8–40 m. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A. Number of pitons driven: for belaying: rock II.

### Description of the ascent route to the top of Bolshoy Chimgan via the Western spur of the Northern ridge, category 2B complexity Includes details on traversing the route and its characteristics.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — rock climbing Ascent area — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge Peak, its area, and ascent route. Bolshoy Chimgan, 3277 m, via the Western counterfort of the Northern ridge Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1700 m, average steepness — 30°, length of sections: R1–50 m, R2–60 m, R3–80 m, R4–60 m, R5–200 m, R6–50 m, R7–2.5 m, R8–40 m, R9–400 m. Proposed difficulty category — 2B category of difficulty Number of pitons used: for belaying, for creating belay stations: rock — 5, ice — 0, bolt — 0. Number of travel hours — 10 hours Number of nights and their characteristics — one-day ascent Full name of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

Report on the ascent to the summit of Big Chimgan (3309 m) via a combined route of 2A category of difficulty.

First ascender: Zhukov V. — rest of the information is lost. Further data on Shekhovtsov S.'s group. Ascent Passport Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge. #7 / 7.12 according to the 2001 classifier Mt. Bolshoy Chimgan. 3309 m via N ridge / W spur. Proposed category: 2A category of difficulty Route type: Combined (ridge) Route elevation gain: 1499 m (by GPS) Route length: 3680 m (by GPS) Section lengths: II category of difficulty – 2267 m (by GPS)

Description of the traverse route of Maly and Bolshoy Babaitag peaks (2A category of difficulty) in the Chatkal Range of the Pamir-Western Tian Shan.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class - rock Ascent area - South-Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge Ascent route - Traverse of Maly and Bolshoy Babaitag (Shakhtyor) from the south 3555 m Estimated difficulty category - 2A Route characteristics: height difference - 2000 m average steepness - 25° Number of rock pitons driven - Number of overnight stays - Number of walking hours - 9

Description of the climbing route to Peak Aytor via Peak Sayram and Peak Arsen along the northern edge with a difficulty category of 4B.

Rafikov I.Sh. (team leader), Vchinnikov S.I., Li N.B., Mendorf V.R. Route: Sairam – Ayutor, NE ridge, to the right. Length 45 km. Height 4724.6 m, 20 hours. 24-25.09.1984. Ascent to Sairam Peak Group's route Sedelnikov's route, 5B cat. diff. www.alpfederation.ru Crux of the route North edge of Ayu-Tor peak (left profile)

Description of the ascent route to Sairam peak via the 2nd buttress of the North wall in the Western Tian Shan, category of difficulty 5B.

Ascent Passport Region: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge. 7.11 Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the 2nd buttress of the North face. Difficulty category: assumed 5B, 2nd ascent. Route characteristic: rock. Route height difference: 813 m, route length: 1127 m, section lengths: V difficulty category — 504 m, VI difficulty category — 73 m, average steepness: main part of the route — 77°, entire route — 72°. Pitons left on the route: total — 4. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

First ascent of a new route, category 5B, via the right buttress of the North face of Sayram peak (4238 m) in Ugam Range, Tian Shan.

Ascent Passport Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11. Name of the peak: SAYRAM, route via the right buttress of the North face. Assumed to be 5B cat. sl. First ascent. Nature of the route: rock. Height difference: 913 m. Route length: 1127 m. Length of sections: V cat. sl. — 504 m. VI cat. sl. — 73 m.

Description of the ascent route to Peak Sayramskiy (4228 m) via the western counterfort of the northern wall, category 5B difficulty.

Ascent Passport Ascent class - rock Ascent area - range; Western Tian Shan, Ugam range Peak, its height, ascent route - Sayramsky peak, 4238 m, via the western counterfort of the northern wall. Estimated difficulty category - 5B Route characteristics: height difference - 730 m length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 404 m average steepness - 70° Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating RTO

Description of the ascent route to Sairam Peak (4238 m) via the center of the northern wall, category 6B difficulty.

Ascent Logbook I. Ascent category: Rock climbing Ascent area, ridge: Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak "Sairam" 4238 m, via the center of the north face. Proposed difficulty category: sixth, 5B Route characteristics: height difference — 830 m length of sections with 5B–6 difficulty — 485 m average steepness — 76° Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors